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	MICHAEL GRAVES-JOHNSTON
	Bookseller P.O. Box 532. LONDON SW9 ODR

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FEOM BENGUELLA

TO THE

TERRITORY OF YACOA.

AUG 0 7 1985

l.fBRARfc*

LONDON :

PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED,

ST. JOHN'S SQUARE.

VI

Gil

C22X

FEOM BENGUELLA

[v/\AA t0 the

TEEEITOEY OF YACCA.

Uctfcviption of a $ounug into

CENTRAL AND WEST AEEICA.

COMPRISING NARRATIVES, ADVENTURES, AND IMPORTANT SURVEYS

OF THE SOURCES OF THE RIVERS CUNENE, CUBANGO, LITANDO,

CUANZA, AND CUANGO, AND OF GREAT PART OF

THE COURSE OF THE TWO LATTER;

Together with the Discovery of the Rivers JTamba, Caua/i, Sussa, and

Cugho, and a detailed Account of the Territories of Qniteca

N'bungo, Sosso, Futa, and Yacca.

BY

H. CAPELLO and R. IVENS,

Officer* of the Royal Portuguese Navy*

EXPEDITION ORGANIZED IN THE TEARS 1877—1880.

TRANSLATED BY

ALFRED ELWBS, Ph.D.

WITH MAPS AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II.

iiontion: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,

CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.

1882. [All riff Ids reserved.]

IN RESPECTFUL REMEMBRANCE

OF

JOSE J. DE OLIVEIRA ANCHIETA,

THE ENLIGHTENED, UNTIRING, AND MODEST

NATURALIST AND EXPLORER

TO WHOM

SCIENCE AND HUMANITY

AEE SO DEEPLY INDEBTED

A SPECIAL PAGE OF THIS VOLUME

CONTAINING HIS POETEA1T

IS DEVOTED BY

THE EXPLORERS.

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

CHAPTER I.

PAGE

Last day at the fair and meditations under the old sycamores — Desertions and new recruits — General aspect of the country, temperature and effect of humidity — A native court and a cemetery — Sketch of an encampment on the march — Cambolla the jagga — Etiquette in the Banza — The sova'shat — Exchange of presents — The banks of the Lui and the baobabs — -An ex- cursion towards the Cuango — Difficult roads and dangerous currents — The water-snake and fetish preservatives — Alarm caused by a couple of leeches — The jagga of the Bondos and four salt lakes — A sacrifice to science — Native caravans — Prone- ness of the Africans to trade, and what they owe to it — The pest of the woods, and an unpleasant family of ants — Tala- Mogongo ; its aspect and vegetation — A lovely prospect and the reflections it awakened ....... 1

CHAPTER II.

Limits of Cassange — Native justice — Reflections upon the African character — The rise and course of the Cambo — The African opium— The insect world — Breaking up of the encampment — Capulca again — Lake Utamba — Deceptive medlars — N'Dala Samba and T'Chica — Jose do Telhado and mortality of the Europeans in Africa — Cuango and Cuanza — Divisional line of their waters — Cha-Landu and exactions of the petty sovas

viii C 071 tents.

PAGE

— The Ambaquista, distinctive features, habits, importance, fondness for scribbling— Ascent of the morroBango — Dr. Max Buchner, the German explorer — A queer ecclesiastic — The Lu-calla and Lianzundo cataract — Duque de Braganca and a dinner with Captain A. Silverio . ..... 24

CHAPTER III.

On the tramp again — The banks of the Lu-calla and a nice dispute — Cateco, the hunter of wives — The Jinga, its limits and im- portance— The king, titles and residence — Hierarchical scale — Peculiar mode of bestowal of property — The ma-lung a and quijinga — The Muco-N'Gola or Mona N'Gola — Strange head- dresses and queer pockets — On the summit of the Serra Catanha — A love episode and its unpleasant close — Conjugal relations — An evening discussion and a morning fli'ght — Mineral wealth of the Jinga — Mode of preparing cloth, dwellings, &c. — A storm in the forest, and a further desertion — Den of thieves — A page or two from the diary — A tough cow — Arrival at Cafuchila ........ 48

CHAPTER IV.

The Hungo and its people — Head-dresses — Tobacco and snuff — Ugliness of the women, their indifference to dress — Low esti- mation in which they are held — The monarch of the Congo — Preparations for departure — Discussions with the natives — Sudden dissolution of a meeting — Abandoned senzalas — A little looting — Lake Tiber — The camp kitchen and an old acquaintance — A siesta disagreeably interrupted — Flight of the caravan — Fallen among thieves — A trial and a singular decision — The forest fired — Woods and vegetation — Quadru- mans and reptiles — What explorers have to expect — Discovery of the river Cu-gho — Varieties of trees — Passage of the river and African cunning — A rest in the forest . . . .71

Contents. ix

CHAPTER V.

PAGE

We leave the Cu-gho — Gloomy presentiments — The mu-chitos and the desert — An evening of tribulations and a devouring thirst — Trying times of a life in the interior — A Providential inter- position— More mu-chitos and fresh labour — Caught in the wood — Nervous state of the explorers — All but lost — Scouts sent out in search of succour — Two lines from the diary — A terrible night — Return of Jose and brief narrative of his adventures — Two solitary hunters — Fresh hopes — Again astray — An apparition of palancas — Night again — Final decision . . . . . . . . . . 92

CHAPTER VI.

Opinion of the authors upon laconism in the description of toil and suffering — The night of the 27th May — Apprehensions — Night phantoms — An unexpected discovery — The women of the caravan — A marriage — Famine and plenty next-door neighbours — Having satisfied the body we seek distraction of mind — A wine-party — Quizengamo, an important quilolo, visits the encampment — Two pages from the diary — The guides urge us to repair to the Court of the Quianvo — Our own resolve — The Cuango and capricious sinuosities of its course — Frightful effects of dysentery — Putrid fermentation and the failure of food — A dance of the Ma-yacca — Aban- doned in the forest — Fever, ulcers, and dysentery — Flight of the guide — The desert — Fragment of the diary — Baffled — Return— The Cugho 113

CHAPTER VII.

The author's experience respecting the importance of the stomach — Brief sketch of the course of the River Cuango — In the Cugho — The land of plenty — Maluvo wine and its collection — Lake Aquilonda wiped off the map — The palm and climato- logic zones — The Rivers Sussa and Cauali — Vegetation— Sova

Contents.

PAGE

Catuma Cangando and indiscreet curiosity of his lady-subjects — A native song — Strange ceremony among the Ma-hungo — An interment in the woods — Danje, Luamba, Matamba, and Pacaca Aquibonda — Caculo-Cabaca — Homicide of a carrier — The value of life among the negroes — F?/wda-ia-Ebo and the last burial — The valleys of the Lu-calla and a story of a crocodile — A new theory of Cosmogony — The delights of the table — Passage of the Lu-calla —List of members of the caravan that reached Duque de Braganca . 139

CHAPTER VITT.

Duque de Braganca, its importance and fertility — Dinner-time again — A Sova god-father — African children and some re- marks concerning them — Infants and adults — Explanations concerning our route — A parallel and the cardinal points* — An alarm — The encampment in flames — Anxious moments — The papers of the explorers and the ammunition of the expedition — Carriers and thieves — Things might have been worse — Otubo and our clumsy assistant — " From sources small what great events may spring " — The bi-sonde and the last night of the month of July 162

CHAPTER IX.

Pinal departure from Duque de Braganca — One of Jose's stories — The Lu-chilo and the patrulhas — The Ptyelus olivaceus — Cap- tain Silverio's pets — The Cosmetornis vexillarius— Jose has another uncle — Samba-Cango, the Hango and the Lu-calla — Brief notice of the river, conformation of the land and vege- tation— The Cariombo and Porto Real — Novel rafts and ingenious method of propulsion — A visit to Pamba, and a few remarks thereon — A vegetable giant — The road to Pedras Negras — Jose and the basalts — Xative silk — Pungo N'Dongo, its aspect and constitution — Remarkable impressions on the rocks — Port Hunga and its orange-trees — Philosophical con-

Contents.

XI

^derations of the explorers — " In the country of eyes, the blind are kings" — The Caballo cascade — The Cuanza, ob- stacles, fish, cataracts — Brief reflections thereon — Malange, Calundo, and Pungo N'Dongo ... ... 179

CHAPTER X.

Return to camp — The pulex penetrans and a noteworthy entozoario ■ — Variableness of the winds at Pungo N'Dongo — The ex- plorer's staff and the writer's pen — We take leave of Silverio — Cabeto and Cuanza flies — Native lightning-conductors — Capanda and the western vegetation — Brief notice of its ornithology — Sengue and Nhangue-ia-Pepe — Cataracts of the Cuanza — The Sova Dumba — Cassoque — Von Mechow — The Baugo and climatological variations — The Cuanza and the Cabulo cataract — Last glance at the interior — The Dondo — Reception of the explorers at that place — A trip on the river — Loanda — Mossamedes — The voyage home .... 208

Conclusion ......

Table of Geographical Observations .

Heights above the Sea-Level

Additions to the Fauna

Flora

African Dialects

Vocabularies .

Index

231 277 282 283 299 302 304 335

LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

PAGE

Dorningos' tender farewell . . . . . . . .4

Catraio . . . . . . . . . . .5

The Caravan, in a long line, filed off . . . . . .6

Construction of the Encampment . . . . . .8

The Jagga Cambolla . . . . . . . .11

Plunging into the thick grass . . . . . .20

Following the steep and broken track ■ . . . . .21

Native Box 23

Smoking the fatal Liamba . - . ' . * . . . . .29

The colossal Lughias . . " . . . . . .33

A roadside Cemetery . . . . * . . . . .36

An Ambaca Gentleman . . . . . . . .41

" I am Dr. Max Buchner " 43

Lianzundo Cataract ......... 45

Nest of the Capata-ieu . • . . . . . .47

On the banks of the Lu-calla . . . . . . .49

Jinga Type . . . 53

Cateco, the Guide ......... 59

The Tempest had now reached its height . . . . .63

All but lost 67

We found the herd waiting ....... 68

Sharpia Angolensis ......... 70

The Ladies of the Hungo 73

x i v List of Engravings .

PAGE

Lake Tiber 79

The Holo Type 81

The Court was complete ........ 84

We had to cut our way with the hatchet ..... 87

The Cu-gho Watermen 90

Cynocephalus Porcarius ........ 91

Slowly descending from a height ...... 97

The Mu-chito 99

Jose and his Companions emerged from the Wood . . . 106

ThePalancas . . . . . . . . . .110

Coracias Espatulata 112

Lemba, Hutu's Wife 117

The two Fugitives . . . . . . ... . 121

Yacca Head-dresses . . . . . . . . .125

The Cuango in Yacca . . . . . • . .129

Dances of the Ma-yacca . . . . . . . .130

Woman of the Congo . . . . . . . . . 134

The silence of the tomb reigned supreme 135

Qui-vuvi, the Silk-spider . . . . . . . .138

Provisions literally showered ....... 142

Curiosity punished . . . . , . . . .151

A terrible Mishap . . . . . . . . .155

Cosmetornis Vexillarius (Quimbamba) . , . . . . 161

A Sova Godfather .167

The Peril was intense . . . . . . . .174

African Silk . .178

The Patrulha of Samba Cango . . . . . . . 184

It is a complete system of parallel screws ..... 186

Rocks of Pungo N'Dongo . . . 193

The Caballo Cascade . . . . 199

Telphusa Anchieta?, River Cuanza ...... 200

Telphusa Bayonniana, River Cuanza ...... 200

Euprepes Ivensi (new species), River Cuanza . . . .201

List of Engravings.

Chroinis Sparramanni (Smith), River Cuanza Dembe (Mormyrus Lhuysi, Steind), River Cuanza Muaca (Hemichromis Angolensis, Steind), River Cuanza Cliromis Moss Ambicus (Peters), River Cuanza Highly ornamental frog, River Cuanza River Cuanza Crab ..... Empacaceiro of Quissama .... The Tipoia of Angola ....

The Voyage home .....

XV

PAGE

201 204 204 204 205 207 216 224 230

►

Sampson. Low, Marston . Searle , & Rhdnatcnx

5000»feet 4000 \

3O00

level of tke SeaJ

m5?

. a

FROM BENGUELLA TO THE TERRITORY OF YACCA.

CHAPTER I.

Last day at the fair and meditations under the old sycamores — Deser- tions and new recruits — General aspect of the country, temperature and effect of humidity — A native court and a cemetery — Sketch of an encampment on the march — Cambolla the jagga — Etiquette in the Banza — The sova's hat — Exchange of presents — The banks of the Lui and the baobabs — An excursion towards the Cuango — Difficult roads and dangerous currents — The water-snake and fetish preservatives — Alarm caused by a couple of leeches — The jagga of the Bondos and four salt lakes — A sacrifice to science — Native caravans — Proneness of the Africans to trade, and what they owe to it — The j>est of the ivoods, and an unpleasant family of ants — Tala-Mogongo ; its aspect and vegetation — A lovely prospect and the reflections it awakened.

We have before observed that the departure of a caravan for a long journey is always an event of some importance, as the reader would have admitted had he been by our side in Cassange in the afternoon of the 18th day of February in the year of grace 1879.

The ample terrace of our residence was encumbered with the various articles taken from the warehouses by the busy little band of boys. The work began as usual with a great deal more noise than was necessary, accompanied by animated jovial talk, a great display of

VOL. II. B

.^M^.cJ^^^^-^,^^^^ :

SECTION BETWEEN M.CAENGUE AND MASSANCANO fcrironul Scale i». ..- M ,,,

2 West and Central Africa.

white teetli and sundry jokes from the more lazy of the crew seated on the bales and trunks.

Exchanges of loads, protests against their weight, substitution of muskets, pilferings of ropes and straps, or the loss of a key of an important case, that required to be opened, and which the intelligent carrier, after insane search, in a sudden fit of inspiration, suggested might be inside, made up some of the common incidents of the scene.

The sun, as it got high in the heavens, was a signal to knock off work, the goods being then all piled in readiness, and we took our last rest beneath those memorable sycamores.

Each had lighted his pipe and was puffing huge volumes of smoke in silence, his head sunk within the collar of his great-coat, his knees well drawn in and his body arched to the not unnatural position assumed by a man who has only a hard stone to sit upon !

Forty days had we passed in that place, gazing upon the miserable huts, and twice as many plans had we dis- cussed and rejected in the interval. L'homme propose et Dieu dispose is a proverb which, however hackneyed, had been found to be only too true in Cassange scores of times.

" Cribbed, cabined, and confined " in that wretched hole, where our goods were stored in semi-picturesque disorder, at one time down with fever, and more often than not under its influence, a constant prey to ticks (ma-n'cuba) which had permanently settled about us, there was scarcely any form of annoyance that we had not gone through during our stay.

It has been seen how the excursion to the east was defeated by the Ban-gala ; how a previous one to the north was frustrated by fever ; how the rains prevented

Leave-takings

&

any wanderings in the neighbourhood ; and finally, we may add, that interviews with the natives were so boot- less and so fatiguing that we at last refused to receive them, owing to the insupportable impudence and pre- tensions of the petty chiefs.

Although Cassange cannot be reputed the worst of places, owing to the resources which it undoubtedly possesses, it was nevertheless one of those that we left without regret and would willingly have blotted from our memory.

Jose, our new guide, but recently engaged, had pro- posed to conduct us by a different road across the Jinga, until we should again fall in with the Cuango ; but many of the carriers who took not the slightest interest in such an undertaking and had certainly no ambition to follow it out, deserted in a body and with them went the cabindas who had hitherto stuck by us. The guide, nevertheless, succeeded in getting some five-and-twenty fresh carriers and with them we had resolved to make a start.

The 18th. of February had come and gone and at day- break of the 19th, when in a sound sleep, a voice, issuing from a head popped within our cabin, exclaimed, —

" Senhores, it is five o'clock ! "

Springing to our feet we issued the necessary instruc- tions ; had a capital breakfast in the dwelling of our good friend Narciso A. Paschoal, whom we beg in this place to thank for many acts of kindness; shook hands and exchanged cordial greetings with acquaintances we had made, and then watched the arranging of our men into marching order.

There were other leave-takings besides our own and some of them even assumed a poetic form. Of this com- plexion was the tender farewell of Domingos, a carrier,

b 2

4 West and Central Africa.

to his beloved Umba, wherein his n* dengue (heart) figured very prominently ; his improvised song running,

TJmba-ri-ame muene rf dengue Io-oende.

Umba-ri-ame muene n' dengue Io-oende.

Moi N'jinji.

Or as it was translated to us,

" Umba, my lady and my heart, From thee, N'jinji must depart !"

DOMINGOS TENDER FAREWELL.

Catraio, our blundering assistant, was spared so pain- ful a ceremony, for the simple reason that his affectionate spouse, for the twentieth time to our knowledge, had run away from him, and now seated on the ground, he sought consolation in his pipe while the bustle and confusion gradually gave place to order, and the caravan,

Departure from Cassange. 5

in a long line, the porters duly laden, filed off to the westward.

In this fashion, then, we abandoned Cassange, and struck into the serpentine path which first crosses the undulating plateaux leading to the western mountains, makes its way along the slopes of the latter, traverses the territory of the Ban-gala and Ban-bondo, on the higher ground, and reaches at last the Portuguese station of the Duque de Braganza.

CATRAIO.

The expeditionary corps steered a direct course for the ravine of Tala-Mogongo, about seven days' journey from our point of departure. Crossing numerous rivulets, for the most part affluents of the Lui, some having an im- petuous current, running through steep banks of schist others on a low flat bed, frequently inundating the adjacent country and giving birth to tall, stiff grass, ferns, Papyrus, Typhus, Nenuphar es, Victorias, and Mariancjas, the homes of numerous frogs, whose croakings were heard at a considerable distance and resembled the

6 West and Central Africa.

cackling of geese, and not a few toads, with a note not unlike the tinkling of grelots, the caravan reached one of the most picturesque regions in this part of Africa.

What a pity, we thought, that our poets and our painters, who are compelled to see so many things with their mind's eye, cannot be transported hither to enjoy in reality the numerous sights and sounds which this magnificent country possesses in such profusion ! What delight these romantic scenes would afford the ardent and

THE CARAVAN, IN A LONG LINE, FILED OFF.

insatiable imagination of the artist and the — but there we stopped, not being quite clear about the delight of the poet under such circumstances. So putting an end to our philosophical considerations, we plunged into the thicket and went on our way.

Under this latitude, the months of February and March are the hottest in the year, the thermometer reaching 87° Fahr. in the shade. The atmosphere so sultry and yet so full of humidity is then perilous in the extreme. When in the heart of the forest, the air, saturated with

A Court of Justice. 7

vapour is almost unbearable, and it is only with an effort that one can breathe at all. Under its influence, the very plants suffer; trunks of stout trees becoming every- where covered with cryptogamic excrescences in a perfect state of putrefaction. As a natural consequence most metals oxydize with astonishing rapidity, and the barrels of our guns and pistols, our knives, the needles of the compasses and other articles were in a few hours covered with rust. Leather softened, the wood of our instru- ments warped, paper returned to its original pulp, our goods soaked up damp like so many sponges, to such a degree that it became necessary to open the bales and expose their contents to the sun, to prevent their utter destruction. In man, the effect of this dis -equilibrium of nature is to produce permanent dysentery.

At about noon, on the 25th, we reached the banza of the Sova Cambolla, the chief of one of the families in whom the jagg ado, already referred to, is invested. Only a few moments previously, we had passed a gigantic syca- more under which a Court of so called Justice was sitting. An assassin was on his trial, his punishment being the payment of a fine to the family of the victim ; and as, on the one hand, there was a mu-cano, and on the other a quituche in respect of the motives of the crime, the accused was likely to be heavily mulcted.

Leaving the banza on the west, we made for a pleasant eminence, which, being crowned with a group of graceful trees, looked a likely place for the construction of our quilombo. Loud cries, however, from the natives gave us to understand that the place was a cemetery ; and com- pelled us to seek another site. We had noticed this to be the case so frequently that we determined in future to eschew picturesque localities for the pitching of our camp — at least, in the neighbourhood of villages, for the

8 West and Central Africa,

natives have quite a mania to select the most beautiful spots for the last resting-places of the dead.

Experience soon taught us that the best place for an encampment was in the wood, and as a general rule we erected it there. Such a site had always much in its favour. Material for the erection of the huts and for fuel was ready to the hand ; our position was relatively independent, and we were relieved from the visits and in- conveniences arising from a residence in the libatas of the sovas. On the other hand, we more than once got into hot water with these gentlemen for refusing to take up our quarters in their precincts, but we always found them disposed to yield if we showed sufficient firmness in our own determination. In the present instance having left the lib at a, near which we first thought of camping, half a mile behind us, we came upon some fresh water, and at once gave orders to pile the goods round a large tree.

Then ensued the busy scene that was usual on such occasions. Our men, who were now tolerably expert from long practice, started off in every direction. Some in search of young trees, which were cut down to form the skeletons of our huts. Others lopped off and brought in branches to fill in the interstices and make a first covering of the roof; whilst many more came laden with sheaves of the tall grass, to be used as thatch and as outer coating of the houses.

Work was going on inside as well as out. Three or four of the most expert would arrange the sleeping-places, composed of grass and dry leaves, on which were spread a couple of panther-skins ; while Otubo neatly piled upon two or three tree-trunks, set in front of our huts, the whole of the goods, that were then covered with tarpaulins which we carried with us for the purpose.

When the two principal huts were built, the men ran

Sketch of the Encampment. 9

up their own little wigwams, disposed in a circle about our own, so as to leave our dwellings and the goods in the centre ; and in about a couple of hours after our arrival the encampment was complete.

Meanwhile Capulca had been fitting up his camp- kitchen, and having turned out his pans, coffee-pots, knives, tin plates, cups, &c, he set two or three young niggers to work to clean them.

We ourselves were soon engaged in determining by divers observations the geographical co-ordinates with their variations, taking the bearings of the region in which we stood, and registering our meteorological calcu- 'ations. The entering all these took up our time till ^out three in the afternoon, the hour generally selected lur our principal meal. The little box that held the cups and plates served alternately as our working and our dining-table. Upon it were then placed a couple of plates with knives and forks, and on the ground a large iron pot of infundi, a dish of roasted meat, on fortunate days, — smoke-dried fish on others, and not unfrequently nothing whatsoever. Our food was seasoned with Chili pepper or jinduncjo which had the advantage of covering any flavour that the palate would otherwise have fouud objectionable. A cup of coffee and a pipe to finish off with did wonders towards making us satisfied with our homely fare.

Then would follow the hour for reflection and repose. An indigo sky, a pleasant temperature, a brilliant land- scape, and a full stomach invited us to rest upon the springy surface of the grass, growing all about us, leaving to the " gentle zephyrs " the care of fanning us to sleep !

At two o'clock that afternoon we were introduced into the dwelling of the jagg a Cambolla, a handsome residence,

io West and Central Africa.

constructed in great part of marianga, perfectly interlaced with grass, and surrounded by a stockade.

The macotas, opening and shutting doors, introduced us successively into fresh compartments, till we wished their etiquette at the very deuce. And there was such an air of mystery about the whole proceeding, peeping into corners and nodding of heads as if they expected to find something which they were sure was lying concealed.

Two more compartments, traversed in the same way, brought us to the hall of reception, in the middle of which we found the old chief, seated on a low stool ; a large framed, powerfully made man, already in years.

Like many of the other potentates of whom we have spoken he exercises absolute and despotic sway over numerous vassals, whom he treats at his good pleasure, makes war and peace as he thinks fit, takes everything he covets and possesses a variety of other prerogatives which his panegyrists are always dinning in his ear.

He was attired in a long cloth of printed calico, bound with blue, had bangles on his wrists and ankles, wore a bead-necklace, and on his head an enormous hat of a Portuguese infantry soldier of the eighteenth century, and which, driven right down to his ears, gave him a most grotesque appearance.

Regretting, as he informed us, his inability to treat us as he wished, he nevertheless made us a little present of an enormous black ox, which, not only refused to yield to the persuasion of a bullet that was put into him, but took to flight across country ad perjpetuam rei memoriam.

Presenting him with some cloth in return and one of Cassai's pups, which his Majesty was very anxious to possess, we took leave of Cambolla Cangonga and pur- sued our way towards the west.

The River Lui.

ii

Before us extended the azure line of the high land, terminating northwards in Mount Bango and the serried heads of the N'guri ; and in the south the view was lost in the far horizon, where Bumba, another jagga of Cajinga, had his residence. On the south-east appeared a lofty peak, called Cassalla, the summit of which is known only to a few intrepid natives, who, having found water

THE JAGGA CAMBOLLA.

near the top, have converted it into a perfect fortress, held lO be impregnable.

Having crossed the Lui, whose banks we found covered with the broad flags of Arundo jyliragmites^ green ferns, eschinomenes — a species of sensitive plant — and ede- monas, we continued on through inundated plains.

On the last day but one of the month of February, to the north-west of the Lu-ango senzala, the expedition

1 2 West and Central Africa.

was encamped on the precipitous bank of the Muhamba ; a rapid torrent to which the waters from the mountains are drained and rush on to swell the Lui. Here we met our old friends the baobabs, those splendid trees we had lost sight of since we left Quillengues. The altitude was shown to be 3321 feet.

The rain at that time was coming down in avalanches. So after arranging our meteorological instruments, barometers, and thermometers in the open air, together with the psychrometers to estimate the humidity, we took shelter within our hut and looked disconsolately at the watery picture.

We still obstinately stuck to our idea of travelling north-eastward,, in order to see whether we could not elude the Ban-gala and cross the Cuango through Holo. But our guides just as obstinately protested against it, asserting that the attempt would be a certain failure.

66 Throughout Cassange," they averred, " the news had spread that the people of the Cuango had forbidden the whites to cross the river. That a short time before, a t'chindelle (referring to Otto Schutt) had got into trouble in the Yongo with the Calandula of the Caquilo and the Banza Quitumba-Caquipungo ; you yourselves, further south, were stopped by the Banza-e-Lunda, and ran great risk of losing all your goods ; so that the trying once more to force a way in the teeth of those savages would be to court defeat and probable destruction.'7

Admitting to a certain extent the force of this reason- ing, we nevertheless held that an attempt might still be made by one of us to ascertain the feeling of the natives whilst the others remained in camp, and this being fully discussed and decided on, we at once proceeded to put the plan into execution.

Next morning, therefore, early, the exploring party

Excursion towards the Cuango, 1 3

set out in the direction of the N'guri range, towering up in the north, and in whose vicinity the jagg a of the Bondos had his dwelling.

Traversing the little plateau of the Luango, we began ascending and descending the undulating ground and plunging into fresh obstacles with every step. The brawling streams, rushing from the heights through the deep furrows worn in the mountain -side, committed all sorts of vagaries, at one time presenting a narrow but deep rivulet, at another inundating the lower ground, which it converted into marshes, where the water reached our waists.

Issuing from a low-sunken valley, we climbed on to the mountain slope, but had no sooner congratulated ourselves upon the change than we were buried in the thick grass and papyrus, and had thus to struggle with the forest and marshy vegetation combined.

These marches up and down, if prolonged to any extent, become somewhat insipid and monotonous, inas- much as the side of the mountain on the one hand and the vegetation on the other, completely shut out all view, and leave nothing but a peak or two and the sky over- head to relieve the attention.

When crossing the river Bale, with the water to our middle, one of the carriers very nearly lost his life. It was a moment of intense anxiety, which was only relieved by dint of great exertion. The poor fellow stepped into one of those holes of soft mud, which are so frequent in these rivers, and sunk immediately down to his arm- pits ; nothing, in fact, could have saved him if help had not been so near.

The woods we passed through were utterly deserted. Scarce a vestige of the passage of a caravan was dis- covered ; the only evidence being the carbonized trunks

1 4 West and Central Africa.

of a few trees and a calcined stone or two in the more open ground.

Whilst cutting our way through dense underwood, a perfect labyrinth of canes and brambles, and where almost every tree exposed its complicated net-work of roots to the air, we observed, to our astonishment and alarm, the men who formed our vanguard throw down their loads and rush towards us.

" Uta ! Uta ! " was the cry. " A snake, senhor, an enormous boa ! "

Desirous of ascertaining the truth, we advanced cautiously in the direction they pointed out, and made our way to the trunk of a colossal Herminiera _£/., lying prone upon the ground, beside the precipitous bank of one of the torrents already referred to. Whilst peering about there suddenly emerged from the grass a gigantic head, followed by an enormous body, which, with a couple of undulations reached the stream and disappeared in the water. This apparition, most probably a water-snake or Naja, produced a most disheartening effect upon our men, not one of whom would now venture to ford the river, each, saw the dreadful reptile at a different spot, only waiting an opportunity to devour him.

In order to frighten away the beast and destroy any secret and malignant influence it might be supposed to exercise, to the prejudice of our expedition, Master Jose, or Ze as they called him, here came to the rescue and exorcised the animal by a combined system of fetishism known only to himself. After the lapse of five minutes he came out of the wood, where he had ensconced himself, gave two piercing whistles and then declared the job complete and that we might enter the water without fear. But when half-way across, a sudden dash of the torrent, followed by a piercing shriek, sent all flying — our-

A curious Bird. i 5

selves, we must confess, among the number — while a man in mid-stream screamed out, " I'm lost ! I'm dead ! "

As, however, in spite of his asseveration he still held his ground, we went to the rescue, and dragged him out, when it was discovered that a couple of leeches had fixed upon his ankle and caused the cries which had so alarmed us.

On the 2nd of March, when passing the base of Mount Catanha, a porter was sent up to the jagga's senzala, with the customary present, subsequently folio wing us towards the north-east, in the direction of the territory of the N'ganga N'zumba. That sova was absent, and the information obtained from his subjects entirely dissipated the notion we had conceived of reaching the Cuango in this direction.

" The Ban-gala will not allow you to pass," they all exclaimed ; but apart from this, they informed us that the land through which the river Lu-anda ran was all under water ; that four salt lakes, the property of N'ganga, also intervened and barred the passage ; and that if even these difficulties were got over, the whole of the foot of the slopes beyond was inundated, and the track, for the time being, utterly swallowed up.

By this time our porter had arrived in company of an inhabitant of the senzala, who brought us a basket of fuba, by way of compliment, and an enormous bird (hear- ing probably that we had a taste for ornithology), which was accompanied by the inquiry whether there were any such beyond the great water.

It was a large, black palmiped with an immense beak like a toucan; the eyes reminded us of a chameleon, being circular, prominent and movable; the body re- sembled that of a duck but was much larger.

Unaware whether the creature was an acquaintance of

1 6 West and Central Africa.

the naturalists, we evaded a reply, and as the doubt existed in our minds we saw no better mode of solving the problem than to wring its neck in the name of science, and substituting for the internal arrangements bestowed upon it by nature, a little cotton wool, wait quietly for the decision of the masters.

Seeing that there was nothing else to be done, we decided on returning the way we came, besides that the state of our health made such a proceeding advisable.

On the 3rd of the month, not only were we prostrated by fever, but dysentery set in, and the ulceration of the lower part of our legs resisted every treatment that we applied, so that the last days' journeys were a martyrdom.

Travelling again over the same ground, which had not been made easier in the interim, we fell in, upon the third day, with a caravan of Ma-songo, bound for the west with a heavy load of india-rubber and wax, for- warded from Cassange.

It appeared in the shape of a long file of men and boys, for the most part wearing a single rug suspended from a piece of rope round the waist, and in which they tucked their pipes, hatchets, knives and other articles ; and as they marched intoning a monotonous song. The boys seemed to be of no little assistance to their elders, who, being laden with packages weighing some ninety pounds, in most cases divided their burthen with the young ones, so that many of these striplings had to carry forty pounds of weight.

The position of a trader in this part of the world is anything but an enviable one. No sooner had we reached the spot than any number of india-rubber balls were offered us for sale, abstracted from the bales by their carriers. As we had no inclination to do business, they dispersed and carried their stolen wares to the neighbour-

Passion for Trade. 17

ing senzalas where, of course, no end of disputes at once arose. In one instance a fellow wanted to exchange his gun, without a lock, for a new one, making up the difference with wax or india-rubber ; in another, a carrier having procured some garapa upon similar terms, his companions managed to abstract and drink half of it, and he could only save the remainder by retiring hastily to the wood, calabash in hand, and consuming it in secret ; two or three haying clubbed together to purchase tobacco, fell to loggerheads about its division, and so on, making a scene of quarrels, drunkenness, and confusion that was perfectly bewildering.

The Africans, as a rule, dearly love a bargain, and many of them have almost an innate passion for trade. Bin-bundo, Ban-gala, Ba-lunda, Ban-bondo, all alike are traders, and are deemed fitting for it in proportion to their cunning and dishonesty, the latter quality being considered indispensable. Living by trade and for trade, they are to be found wherever goods can be ob- tained and bartered, and in pursuit of their calling they will plunge into endless controversy, make contracts which they either break or never half fulfil, and spend innumerable days amid interminable talk.

Their fairs or markets are the important centres where the natives display all their dexterity and eloquence, and to which all the great commercial expeditions natu- rally tend ; but they will never lose an opportunity of doing business on the road.

Goods vary greatly in price and facility of sale, according to the countries they pass through, and one may readily guess for what part of the interior a caravan is bound on learning the kind of merchandise with which it is laden.

The natives have everything to gain by trade, and it vol. it. n

1 8 West and Central Africa.

may well be said that without it they would be nothing. Commerce, by obliging them to make repeated journeys, carries with it, as a necessary consequence, the establish- ment of relations and the making of contracts with dis- tant peoples. Compelled to seek out districts where articles can be obtained at the cheapest rate, in order to get the most profit out of them, they acquire a taste for speculation and a clear knowledge of value. Experience has given them considerable expertness, and nature has supplied them with a vast amount of dissimulation as all Europeans who have had any dealings with them know to their cost.

It is really curious to observe the eagerness with which the negro will seek to do a little business. A cloth or handkerchief purchased but a moment before, will be readily exchanged if he see the most ..trifling profit can be made by the barter. In our own encamp- ment we have had opportunities of observing within the short space of twenty-four hours, a yard of red baize pass into the hands of six successive owners.

The whole of the goods constituting the African trade, south of the equator, are carried upon the heads or shoulders of men, who, collected in caravans, styled m'bacas in the south and quibucas in the north, and directed by a quissongo, march in extended lines across the country. It was one of these we now met, and whose presence has given rise to the foregoing remarks, and which, to our supreme satisfaction, shortly afterwards resumed its way, and left us in peace to construct our own little encampment.

By three o'clock, our huts being built and fires lighted to dry our clothes and prepare our food, we got out the instruments for recording the usual observations, when Catraio (of the " bird of ill-omen " memory, and whose

The Pest of the Woods. 1 9

duty it was to take charge of the scientific apparatus) imparted to us the unwelcome intelligence that we might from that date consider ourselves without a ground thermometer, as he had left the iron tube behind him at Cassange in company of a pair of boots ! He attributed the forgetfulness to the unsettled state of his mind, owing to the desertion of his spouse, and as there was no help for it we had to admit the excuse. We could not help thinking, however, that if we went on at this rate, we should have very few things left by the time we reached the end of our journey.

Substituting for the first loss an air thermometer, we thought of inflicting condign punishment upon the rascal for the serious inconvenience the second might cause us, when we were relieved from the necessity of doing so by a huge fly, common enough in the thicket, and whose powerful mandibles cause great terror to the natives, which fixed upon the negligent assistant and stung him severely ! The insect somewhat resembles the Gapambo (Dasypogon Capambo ?) or ox-fly, but is consi- derably larger. Its sting, which is very venomous, is immediately followed by inflammation and acute pain, that occasion serious inconvenience. Naturalists call it Synagris comuta, but we, among ourselves, dubbed it the pest of the woods!

It was on the 7th of March that we again joined company and shook hands on the bank of the Gamba rivulet.

Immediately on our arrival we became sensible of a most horrible stench, which made us suppose that some flesh was about in an advanced stage of decomposition ; but we learned upon inquiry that it was due to a visitation of a strange species of black ants, nearly half an inch in length, that had invaded the camp and which emitted

c 2

20

West and Central Africa

the most pestiferous smell as they were destroyed by the men. There was nothing better to be done than to

PLUNGING INTO THE THICK GRASS.

escape the infliction by flight, and on the very day of our arrival we consequently set forth.

Ta la - Mogongo.

21

Before us rose the vast heights of Tala-Mogongo, with spurs that jut out into the plain like huge promon- tories, whose precipitous sides, tinged by oxide of iron, have the appearance of titanic walls.

Following the steep and broken track which wound

FOLLOWING THE STEEP AND BROKEN TRACK.

about the flanks of the mountain, now clinging to a mossy trunk, now to a branch that offered a friendly hold, we succeeded, in carrying our reduced weight over the asperities that lay between the valley and the practicable heights.

22 West and Central Africa.

We halted upon a little platform to enjoy the splendid panorama unrolled before our delighted eyes. The in- clination of the slope was about 45°, and it was clothed with wood of a dark green colour, so thickly that not a yard of ground was distinguishable. The very trunks of the tamarinds, acacias, and taculas were invisible from the wealth of foliage that surrounded them. From the base of this richly- wooded mountain ran on and on, as far as the eye could reach, vast savannas which presented every gradation of green and blue according to the distance from the point of vision, covered at the outset with a labyrinth of tree-trunks, and intersected further on by meandering streams which occasionally glittered as they were caught by the light, and then were lost again. The picture was further adorned by several lofty moun- tains, such as the Bongo and the serried heads of the Yongo range, that stood out in bold relief " against the sky, and the sun had arrived at that point in the heavens when it flooded the whole scene with golden, transparent hues, which had the effect of intensifying, without destroying, the other lovely colours of the landscape !

For half an hour we stood wrapt in wonder and admiration before the lovely prospect, and, as is not un- frequently the case when contemplating similar marvellous works of the beneficent Creator, it brought to us a peace and serenity of mind to which we had long been strangers.

There in the distance lay the mysterious Cuango, — there the lands of the Chinje, — yonder rose the mountains of the Peinde, — all abounding in strange problems, and filled with an unknown people, that we so longed to visit and explore !

And then came the revulsion of feeling born of our

A Question of Time. 23

recent trials and disappointments, and almost together we exclaimed, —

" Those infernal Ban-gala ! "

But is it in the nature of things we inquired, that so many thousand souls can remain, in an age of civilization like the present, when the spirit of progress is abroad in the world, steeped in ignorance and slavery, a prey to a few wretched tyrants, not a whit more enlightened than themselves, but on whom superstition and fear have bestowed absolute and irresponsible power !

And the answer came, in the strong conviction of our minds, in words as plain as though they had been uttered by a voice, —

"It is but a question of time ! "

NATIVE BOX.

24 West and Central Africa.

CHAPTER II.

Limits of Cassange — Native justice — Reflections upon the African character — The rise and course of the Cambo — The African opium — The insect world — Breaking up of the encampment — Capulca again — Lake Utumba — Deceptive medlars — N'Dala Samba and T'Chica — Jose do Telhado and mortality of the Europeans in Africa — Cuango and Cuanza — Divisional line of their waters — Cha-Landu and exactions of the petty sovas — The Ambaquista, distinctive features, habits, importance, fondness for scribbling — Ascent of the morro Bango — Dr. Max Buchner, the German explorer — A queer ecclesiastic — The Lu-calla and Lianzundo cata- ract— Duque de Braganca and a dinner with Captain A. Silverio.

We were at length out of the territory of the jag gas of Cassange, and away from the influence of those im- portunate Ban-gala and of their terrible climate, for though under the parallel we had now reached there was little to be said in favour of its salubrity, the basin of the Cuango must be considered perfectly pestilential. Tn spite of this, we more than once, having somewhat recovered from our fatigue, half made up our minds to turn back, and try again, but better counsels prevailed ; so definitively turning our backs upon the inhospitable region, we pursued our way.

All our crew expressed a lively sentiment of satisfaction at having escaped out of the clutches of those grasping and cruel tribes amongst which we had struggled so long, and being relieved from the apprehension of another attempt to force a passage through them, the caravan, with Capulca in front, and ourselves bringing up the rear,

Rescue of a Prisoner. 25

plunged into the masses of verdure in capital temper. The abundance of low marshy ground and pools of stagnant water makes this part of the country simply calamitous and we did not envy the possessions of N'Dala Quissua, who is the ruler of the district.

We had not traversed more than three miles of the road than we quickened our steps on hearing loud shrieks and cries proceeding from the forest.

Cassai, the hound, on seeing us run, started on ahead and struck into a by-path as if to show us the way. A few minutes brought us to a quilombo, outside which a little crowd had gathered. The chief, as we were informed, was not present, and in answer to our inquiries about the shrieks we had heard, we were told with the usual circumlocution that the carriers were amusing them- selves with chastising an unfortunate for not paying his debts.

The curious part of the matter was, that he was per- fectly innocent, for we learned on rescuing him that an inhabitant of the village to which he belonged had some time before obtained something to eat at the senzala and not paid for it, and that they had seized upon him to settle the score.

His body was in a miserable state from the blows he had received, but when he found himself among friends, he seized a knife and seriously wounded one of his per- secutors.

Having, after some trouble, quelled the disturbance, we resumed our journey, taking the late prisoner with us as a guide to the place for which we w^ere bound, situated, as he averred, at no great distance on the road.

It is worthy of remark that we rarely observed among the natives, scars of wounds arising from individual dissensions among them. At the outset we took this as

26 West and Central Africa.

a favourable sign, showing their little tendency towards crimes of violence. With wider experience, however, we considerably modified this opinion, and attributed the fact rather to indifference. The natives, indeed, seldom trouble themselves about others. Personal interest with them is everything, and that satisfied, rightly or wrongly, they care little for aught else. From this indifference to others, rivalry occurs only in special cases. Those games and competitions wherein dexterity is the moving spirit, that love of distinction and thirst for admiration, which in Europe not unfrequently lead to quarrels and disputes are pretty nearly unknown among the natives of Africa. And thus it happens that the chief sources of envy and jealousy being dried up, their consequences disappear. The negro has, besides, a natural horror at the sight of blood, and therefore re- frains from committing an assault upon his neighbour, not from any high principle of kindness or compassion, but from timidity and cowardice. When, however, he is brought into contact with civilization, and other interests and stimulants are awakened within him, he too fre- quently becomes a dangerous assassin. Hence it is that crimes of violence are most frequently committed by those tribes who reside among Europeans, and who are to be found in great commercial marts.

At half-past one on the 8th day of March, 1879, we arrived at a vast cane-bed, pointed out by our guide as the source of the river we were seeking.

Having set up the abba on the brink of the marsh, we took observations to determine the longitude and varia- tion, and while chewing a manioc root, and remarking for the hundredth time that it tasted very much like a chestnut, we jotted down the following particulars in our diary : —

The course of the River Cambo. 2J

The Cambo rises on the slope of Serra Catanha in marshy ground that receives the drainage of the upper plateau, and running northwards between the lands of Quifucussa and Catalla Canjinga, penetrates into the Jinga, and finally empties itself into the Cuango in latitude 7' 40°, about seven miles below the great cataract of Suco-ia-muquita or Suco-ia-n'buncli,1 in the territory of the Tembo Aluma, and above two others possessed by the same river. It is the second affluent of the Cuango after the Lui, and is erroneously represented on the old maps, where it is made to run through the low grounds of the Yongo and Holo in a mean direction north-north east.

We were just preparing to make a series of magnetic observations in the interest of science, which nowadays demands so much of the explorer, when the rain quite upset our arrangements, and compelled us to leave the task to future travellers, whom we trust may be blessed by better weather. As to ourselves, we were assailed by a fierce thunder-storm, followed by a deluge of rain, that compelled us to keep indoors, to the unconcealed delight of our followers, who, not in the slightest degree in- convenienced by the clouds of thick smoke that filled the confined space of the huts, passed the pipe round from mouth to mouth in hearty enjoyment of the tobacco, which is very abundant in the country of the Bondos.

As long as they confined their attention to wholesome tobacco it was all very well, but most of them soon abandoned the tobacco-pipe for the mu-tojpa, a horn con- taining water and a bowl used for the consumption of the fatal liamba (Cannabis sativa).

The smokers sit round an ample brazier, whence, with small tongs, they draw out a bit of charcoal and place it 1 Suco-ia-u'bundi seems to express a perturbation of sight.

28 West and Central Africa.

on the top of the bowl containing the liamba. One of them puts the mu-topa to his lips, and takes four or five strong pulls, inhaling the precious smoke, whose effect is to cause a violent fit of coughing, apparently all the more satisfactory if it nearly suffocates him in the process. The instrument is then passed on to his neighbour, who draws it till he remains quite stupefied, his eyes glazed while he breathes as if in a deep sleep. The water in the horn bubbles as the smoke is drawn through it, but the sound is soon lost in the hubbub of voices, each man clamorous for his turn. Meanwhile, those who have already had their pull become, as it were, mad-drunk, throw themselves about, talk and laugh in the most excited fashion, the while the saliva, produced by the in- halation of the burning hemp, runs from their mouths and makes them, with the contortion of their features, dreadful objects to contemplate.

We tried our best over and over again to put a stop to the practice, for the sight of the men disgusted while it pained us ; but it was of no use, for they only hid themselves away in the woods and indulged in the dele- terious habit in secret.

An entomologist would have been in ecstasies with the variety of specimens to be met with in this region. When the rain was over, thousands of butterflies, adorned with wings of every variety of colour, darted about the wood, and excited our wonder and admiration, and we only wished that the illustrious director of the Museum at Lisbon could have been there to enjoy the spectacle.

At one moment there fluttered past us the Synagris comuta, already spoken of ; at another the ma- cunhapamba or Odonata. On the green stalks of the tall grass we recognized the mu-curulumbia Mantis, nearly four inches in length, climbing towards its curious

Entomology

29

nest, and hard by we saw the still more curious home of the Capata-ieu, constructed of small fragments of stick, arranged like a fluted column and fastened securely together by a web. These being burnt, produce an ash reputed of great value for the preservation of the teeth, which may indeed be gathered from the native name, ieu,

-•i^>:fe:£r>^

)K1NG THE FATAL LIAM

signifying a tooth. On the ground the gongolo (Sjnros- treptus gongolo) were crawling slowly by the side of Gapricornios ; more than one variety of Scarabeus engaged on their laborious task of conveying along enormous balls, formed of matter dropped by herbivorous animals, wherein to preserve their eggs.

30 West and Central Africa.

The termites, ever hard at work, were reconstructing their habitations. Strange Arachnidios, such as the silk- weaying spider, ma-vuvi (Nephita bragantina) were swing- ing from spray to spray, fastening them together with their delicate yellow webs. The active and obscure Xylophages were mining to the very heart the knotted trunks of ancient trees. Colossal m'bangarala (Cicadas), in continual motion, perfectly confused us with their pecu- liar sharp whirr, interrupted every now and then by the still more piercing notes of the n'gumbe, a bird that we took to be the Gorythaix paulina. The wonderful ma- ribundo or ma-libundo (Pelopceus spirifex) whose clay nests might be seen sticking about the beams of the houses, were also among our numerous acquaintance. After depositing in each nest an egg and food for the support of the progeny when it comes out, the parents close it up and abandon it to its fate. Not 'the least singular peculiarity about the creatures is, the apparent absence of females among them, as all those caught were males. We also saw buzzing about innumerable bees, and certain small honey-producing flies, the latter a perfect scourge of the encampments, which assail the tired traveller in such myriads that he eats flies, drinks flies, sneezes them out of his nose, and coughs them out of his throat, until he is half maddened with the visitation.

At six o'clock, when the sun disappeared, and the earth was immersed in shadow, the insect world retired, and silence fell upon the scene. We then sought the driest place in our little huts, whereon to extend our tired limbs — spread our leopard-skins upon the grass, drew our caps down upon our ears, and invoking divine Morpheus, prayed of him the gift of tranquil sleep. This he was good enough to grant us, and the night passed without any of those disturbing influences which may be

Awakening of the Encampment. 3 1

interesting to a reader, but are far from pleasant to a weary explorer.

With, the first red blush of morn we rose and soon woke up the entire encampment, when once again was re- peated the picturesque scene of the starting of the cara- van, so full of incident and of a certain wild charm to the traveller who plays his part therein.

After a prolonged performance of stretching of limbs and yawning of huge jaws that are fearful to behold, an incessant chatter, joined to that peculiar sniggering laugh of the negro, accompany the efforts of some of the men to revivify the smouldering embers of the fires, in order to warm the food prepared the night before ; while other hands are busy in rolling up the mat-beds, which with joints of meat and bags of fuba compose the bag- gage of some of the carriers.

The coffee for the chiefs is then set to boil.

The goods, drawn from the heap where they have been piled, are taken out by their respective porters, and secured with their other impedimenta to the mangos.

The scene becomes a very lively one ; all are at work, or pretending to be so, and a general chorus of voices, in every key, from the deep bass of the stalwart carrier to the faint treble of a puling child, is echoed far and wide.

Meanwhile, the light increases in intensity. Thousands of birds are upon the wing, and gladdened by the sight of day are filling the woods with melody. The mist, which has hitherto hung over the horizon, is now moving upwards and melting in the air, allowing the eye to embrace the outline of the distant hills, from behind which soon grandly rolls the orb of day, which in those latitudes, north or south of the equator, rises approxi- mately at ten minutes past or ten minutes before six.

The hot coffee is taken, to the great comfort of the

3 2 West and Central Africa.

inner man ; the women with their infants at their backs and baskets on their heads are waiting to fall in ; the cook has gathered np his last traps and seen them duly secured; the guide marshals his men who are to act as a vanguard, and at a signal takes the lead ; others soon follow ; a last look round is given to see that nothing has been left behind, and in a few minutes — of the encamp- ment so recently full of noisy life — there remain but a couple of dozen huts, looking already strangely solitary, and a few heaps of smoking ashes.

Plunging into the woods, with our strength renewed by the night's rest, we make our way, deriving no small assistance from our bill-hooks in widening the path and removing too obtrusive thorns, while we philosophize on the marvels of creation and dilate on the advantage of a bit of adhesive plaster on our corns !

These early morning tramps through the grass and forest land have doubtless a charm of their own, but as certain drawbacks modify every pleasure in this world, so we discover that tall grass laden with water and satu- rated trees which the slightest wind puts in motion, and thereby creates an artificial rain beneath, may contri- bute in the end to make a man feel very uncomfortable.

Still we pushed on in good spirits, buoyed up with the hope that we should soon be in the open where the warm sun would dry our clothing and a good meal would fortify our stomachs, when suddenly there broke upon the mind of Capulca a reflection that could not but interest us very deeply ; namely, upon what we were to expend the splendid appetite that our morning's march had made wonderfully keen ! But one pound of fuba, it appeared, was all he could offer for the refreshment of two hungry men, seasoned with as much fresh air as we chose to throw in !

The colossal Lughias. 3 3

It was really too bad, and the fellow seemed to make quite a virtue of the fact that he had only just thought of it !

Our disappointment was so great that we had scarce eyes or admiration left for the many beauties that met our view as we neared the borders of the forest and got upon clearer ground, so all-engrossing was the subject of an empty stomach with nothing to put into it !

THE COLOSSAL LUGHIAS.

And yet how beautiful were the colossal lughias, with their green and tender fruit, and wide-spreading branches, beneath which hundreds of men could find an easy shelter ; how charming were the mu-anza, covered with the won- derful bark so useful for dyeing leather ; how marvellous were the varieties of thorns and underwood, here present- ing spongy heads, and there glowing with flowers, as

VOL. 11. d

34 West and Central Africa.

remarkable to the sight as to the smell ; but alas ! none of these were good to eat, and we were getting so hungry that half their picturesqueness was swallowed up in the great absorbing thought of food.

Cursing the negligence of that very trying individual, Capulca, and envying the philosophy with which our com- panions in misfortune solaced themselves with their pipes, we drew our belts all the tighter to prevent the emptiness of our stomachs from being too apparent, and still trudged on, the sun, as it made giant strides in the heavens, setting us the example.

Strange as it may appear, our black thoughts were gradually dissipated amid the constant change of scene, and eluding the pangs of hunger, we followed the ill- defined track which edged the forest, now stopping to trim our pipes, now stumbling over the irregularities of the ground.

But these pastimes had not been of many hours duration, when an unexpected disaster overtook us. We had just entered upon an immense slimy plain — a perfect bog indeed, which the guide informed us bore the name of Lake Utumba — when one of us went in up to his knees, and on the other attempting to assist him, both fell flat upon our faces in the slime ! Nose, mouth, eyes, and ears, were choked with the sticky mud, and we had the satisfaction, when we could recover our vision, to discover our followers on the broad grin at our disaster.

Our mouths had been thus unexpectedly filled, and yet we were unsatisfied ; nor did the ghost of a senzala appear to gladden us. At four o'clock, quite fagged out, we were compelled to stop and construct our camp.

No sooner were we installed, than Capulca (that

A deceptive Fruit. 35

genius for discoveries) strolled off along the bank of a neighbouring rivulet, the Cu-ji, and ten minutes later came running back radiant with joy, holding up some- thing in his hand. On drawing nearer he showed us, with great glee, a handful of some yellow fruit, not unlike in appearance the European medlar. We seized it with avidity and crammed it into our mouths ; and then half a dozen men, proceeding to the tree whence it was taken, gathered and ate a considerable quantity.

At night-fall the fires were lighted, and we soon turned in for our desired rest. About eight o'clock we were startled by sundry sighs and groans, which grew louder as we listened, and mingled with these were other sounds not uncommon on board a passenger-ship when the vessel is lurching heavily.

As we started up to learn the cause, we were conscious of a feeling in the stomach, as if it were bursting, followed by a frightful colic, which made us roll about in pain. The murder was out, we had been half poisoned by the unknown fruit we had so heedlessly devoured ; and the cook, the young niggers, and such of the carriers as had partaken of the delusive medlars, were suffering the same pains, and uttering, the cries and groans that had so startled us. Fortunately, we were all violently sick, and having got a little sleep after ridding ourselves of our indigestible burthen, we rose up next morning sadder, but wiser men.

We had a gleam of hope ere setting out imparted to us by Jose, the guide, whose stomach, owing to a fellow- feeling, sympathized with our own. He assured us that before the sun set we should reach the establishments of N'Dala Samba, where he actually possessed an uncle ! a revelation and a relation for which we could have em- braced him on the spot. Nor did he deceive us with

l> 2

36

West and Central Africa.

false hopes, for after seven and a half miles' march we entered T'Chica, and finally reached our destination, pitching oar camp close to two farms, where we were enabled at once to purchase provisions.

At length we had something to eat, and there only remained the ceremony of cooking it. In order to mitigate the horrors of expectation, and discipline our appetites, somewhat excited by the previous twenty- four

A ROAD-SIDE CEMETERY.

hours' fast, if we leave out of the accounb those medlars of painful memory, we sat down and began whittling some sticks, the while Jose's uncle, to whom we had been presented in due form, told us a few stories, inter- spersed with episodes of the woods, which, od more accounts than one, we refrain from presenting to our readers.

We were rewarded at last by Capulca's exclamation that "dinner was ready," and great was our emotion to

Frightful Mortality. 3 7

see him draw from the bubbling cauldron two white and well-fed fowls, which he placed upon the board !

In ten minutes nothing was left but the bones, to the great astonishment of Jose and his respectable relative, who craned their necks in vain to discover if any frag- ments were left that were worth consuming !

On our recent journey hither we had fallen in pretty frequently with the burial-places of both Portuguese and Africans — a sad reminder of the difficulty of keeping life within the body in these remote districts, where various agents of trading-houses, established in Malange, had taken up their quarters with a view to induce the caravans from the interior to halt for refreshment and secure a little business.

At T'Chiea we visited the tomb of a famous Portuguese trader, Jose do Telbado, whose reputation for probity is still preserved among the natives. The monument, that is situated in the middle of a little hamlet, is carefully kept up by the last of his old retainers, and was not only strewn with many fragments of articles used by the deceased, but was made pretty by a variety of flowers in bloom.

The mortality in this part of the continent is perfectly frightful. The miasmatic influence of the climate does not appear so intense at all periods of the year, which is intelligible enough; during the rainy season, the elevated temperature not only makes the emanations from the soil far greater, but causes abundant perspiration, excites more thirst, and renders the absorption considerable, and the organism being thus disturbed, violent and dangerous sickness is the result. During our stay in Cassange, three traders, whereof one was an European, were taken off. At Malange, a firm with three partners, and having a branch at Cassange, was also closed,

$& West and Central Africa.

owing to the death of two out of the three associates; and we were forced to come to the sad conclusion, that whatever their desirability as places of trade, they were but little fitted for the well-being or requirements of Europeans in respect of salubrity.

Where we stood we found ourselves on the divisional line of the Ouango and Cuanza basins. On the north, Camicungo pours its waters into the Congo-Zaire, on the east the Camoaxi runs through the Mucari to the Cuanza.

The caravan being duly provisioned, after a visit paid to Sanza, we started in a south-westerly direc- tion.

We were now in the district of Malange, that we intended crossing on our way to the Duque de Braganca, whence it was our resolve to take a fresh departure for the interior.

Impenetrable wood was met at intervals, in great part under water ; and in spaces where the ground wras cleared, the land was frequently inundated. Traces of game appeared, but no animals were seen ; partridges and wood-pigeons were tolerably abundant, but so shy that we could not get a successful shot at them.

Petty sovetas visited us by the dozen, and with one of them, Cha-Landa, we had a serious dispute. Out of mere caprice that gentleman took a fancy to the great- coat one of us was wearing, and after a good deal of beating about the bush, he made application for it through the interpreter. Irritated by our refusal, he blustered to such an extent in the quilombo, that we had to show him the outside of it.

No one can conceive the series of petty difficulties and annoyances to which the explorer is subject in these parts. The mere sight of his goods arouses all the

The Ambaquista. 39

cupidity of the miserable little despots, and when they cannot satisfy it by force, they resort to every kind of chicanery. No sooner does a caravan appear at any point, than up spring sovetas, seculos, delegates of the latter, relatives of these, and so on, putting forward the most absurd claims ; such, for instance, as the taking of a couple of eggs from the wayside, for which they demand whole pieces of cloth in the shape of fine. It often happens that the sova, who appears in the guise of a captain in the army, is merely a private in one of the native regiments raised by the Portuguese govern- ment in Africa, who gives himself the airs of a general, at least, is surrounded by a horde of worth- less characters, and iuvariably attended by a sort of secretary or bully, always a finished knave, selected from among the Ambaquistas.

And now that we are upon the subject, we will say a few words about this noted tribe, a sort of African Bohemians, who are to be met with throughout the country from Malange onwards. The Ambaquista is in fact the dine damnee of the interior.

One of the surest signs whereby he may be recognized is his general get-up, which is outre to the last degree according to his means ; another is the mark of the small-pox which he generally bears upon his face ; and be it noted, as a peculiarity, that they who are so marked are more cunning than foxes.

Having a profound knowledge of the native character, the Ambaquista makes his way into the senzala, ]oses little time in captivating the good graces of all its inmates, and principally of its Sova, decides disputes, has the cunning to maintain the opinion of superior understand- ing with which he is credited, amuses the ruler with singular stories touching the manners and customs of

40 West and Central Africa.

Europeans, gives him even some notions, however9 erroneous, of religion and of "worship, and in fact creates himself a position. The circumstance of his being able to write — for a good many of his countrymen have that accomplishment — helps not a little to raise him in the estimation of the ignorant savages, and, as the so-called secretary of the Sova, he is naturally a recipient of all his secrets.

Where the Ambaquista is not attached to the service of any ruler, lie makes a tolerable living by wandering about the country with an ink-horn, pens, and paper, packed among the other articles of his little muJiamba, and rarely fails to obtain his two, three, and even some- times four yards of cloth for the letter he writes at the instigation of the Sova to the authorities, and occasion- ally from the latter to a native chief. Among them- selves, the Ambaquistas have a perfect mania for drawing up protests and memorials. A half-dozen of them, united in council, will indite a protest or two every week.

We heard a little story upon this subject which is amusing in its way, and illustrates very completely both their rage for scribbling and their natural caution not to commit themselves. Five of them having drawn up a very lengthy memorial against one of the Portuguese authorities, were about to sign it, when a grave discus- sion arose amongst them, owing to the disinclination of each to be the first to affix his name.

The more they debated the question, the more serious it appeared, and they were about to destroy the docu- ment in despair, out of the difficulty of finding the x of the problem. Finally, a happy thought illuminated the brain of one of them, and was adopted forthwith as a triumphant way out of the difficulty ; and that was to

T?Ma£era,{ F? PalmeirirLhxLS <

13

East of Greenwich

"eller, Uifv

7W".,t. <■+,», s^.W,* .?,

An Ambaca Gentleman,

4i

write their names in the circumference of a circle, and therefore without an}r order of precedence !

The portrait we present to our readers is that of a

AN AMBACA GENTLEMAN.

very superior Ambaquista indeed — a trader and a man of means — a very gentleman of the tribe.

Returning to our narrative, Ave now found ourselves not far from the town of Malange. To the south of us

42 West and Central Africa.

rose Mount Bango, near which we pitched our camp, in order to enjoy a short interval of rest, and make the ascent of the mountain to obtain a tour oV horizon.

As the density of the underwood was such as to bar our progress, the two first days of our sojourn were em- ployed in cutting a path upwards — a labour wherein our whole caravan was employed, while we ourselves prepared the scientific apparatus we intended to convey to the summit. The ascent was made on the third day, and a very hard task we found it ; the chest labouring like the bellows of a forge.

It was a grand spectacle from the top as the mountain rose in solitary grandeur from the plain to a height of nearly 900 feet, and allowed a perfectly uninterrupted view of the verdant savannas through which the Cuanza wound its serpentine course. Further to the northwards was visible another mountain ; on the western horizon appeared the lofty peaks of Tungo N'Dongo, not unlike the cupolas of some gigantic edifice ; on the north-west the mountains of Ambaca ; on the north rose Serra Muhunzo, and on the south lay the town of Malange, all successively marked by the azimuth needle and traced on the paper when the latter descended.

Next morning, the 19th of March, we were seated at the entrance of our hut, sketching the portrait of Master Jose, the guide, who had put on a large hat, and enveloped himself in a sheet for the occasion, while his uncle, lying on his back with his legs in the air, admiringly looked on ; when there suddenly appeared to our astonished eyes an European gentleman, mounted on an ox, and attended by two or three negroes.

As he dismounted, we hastened to meet him, while con- jecture was immediately at work to guess the name and calling of the fair man who stood before us. He at once,

Dr. Max Buchner.

43

however, satisfied our mental inquiries by introducing himself.

" I am Dr. Max Buclmer, a German explorer, sent on a special mission to the country of the Lunda, where I am to have speech of Muata-Yanvo. Being at Malange completing my staff, and waiting for certain articles I

"1 AM DR. MAX BUCHNER."

have to take with me, I heard of your arrival here, and therefore came over with the double object of making your acquaintance and scaling the mountain hard by, an ascent I have promised myself to make ever since my entrance into the country."

Inviting him to breakfast, we soon sat round our im- provised table, which was furnished with the best our

44 West and Central Africa.

men could produce, and for the space of a good hour we talked upon every subject imagination could suggest to three men under such circumstances. We dwelt upon the advantages of certain compasses, of the excellent working of certain other theodolites, of direct processes for the determination of the longitude, of the difficulty of transport in the forest, of the most recent news from old Europe, of the broad awakening interest felt by many of her sons for African exploration, of the disastrous influence of the climate of the great conti- nent ; of the best mode of warding off its fevers, and other kindred subjects, that made the time fly swiftly and pleasantly.

Dr. Buchner then started with a guide we lent him and made the ascent of the mountain by the track we had cut for ourselves. At four he returned, in a devouring fever, and taking a hasty leave, he retraced his steps -the road he had come, and we saw him no more.

We ourselves remained a few days longer in our camp, hard at work during the day and listening to extraordinary stories at night, one of which we record, without, of course vouching for its accuracy.

Some time previous to our arrival a certain celebrated ecclesiastic, whose name, which was not Portuguese, was mentioned to us, made a progress through this part of the country, and played such extraordinary pranks that his fame extended far and wide. The worship that this noble priest endeavoured to set up was that of Bacchus, of a form modelled by himself, and as, instead of young converts, he only met with old roues and jealous rivals, he had recourse to the stick ! The natives, becoming alarmed at this energetic proselytizer, at last gave him the widest possible berth, so that the congregation of this extraordinary pastor, with a cloth round his head

The Lianzundo Cataract. 45

and a flagon under his arm, got gradually smaller. They called him IFganga-ia-puio (the fetichman of the whites), and at last got so terrified at the stories that were told of his evil powers, that the rumour of his coming was the signal for a general flight. Happily, as aguardente grew scarce, the zeal of the missionary cooled, and, as it is pre- sumed, after mature study of the position, he concluded that it was both ridiculous and inglorious to run the risk of the martyrdom of deprivation of alcohol for the stupid and insignificant result of four baptisms and three chrisms, he shook the dust of an ungrateful country off the soles of his feet and travelled coastwise, where it is to be con- cluded he found a more genial soil and unquestionably more rum.

On resuming our journey we skirted the mountains on our right, and had on our left an immense plain, inter- sected by several rivulets with marshy banks, where " the fowls of the air and the beasts of the field " might roam with safety, but which was but ill-fitted for the passage of the human foot. We traversed in six days, by the border of the Malange district, the space interven- ing between our point of departure and the Duque de Braganca, sleeping one night near a little hamlet, where a Sova, in the uniform of a Spanish soldier, worried us almost beyond endurance, at another in the forest ; now in the open, and again on the bank of some river.

It was the 2Sth of March that we sighted for the first time the river Lu-calla, at the residence of Calandula, near the Faba rapids ; and on the 29th, having gone a little up stream we came upon the great Lianzundo cataract, a beautiful sheet of foam, ninety-seven feet in depth, with a spring-like vegetation clinging to its steep sides, and at its feet a thicket of orange-trees, which we depict in our engraving.

46 West and Central Africa.

On the 30th we made the fortress of the Duque, and were cordially received by the Portuguese chefe, Captain A. Silverio, a courteous gentlemen, well advanced in years that had been expended in the service of his country. In the course of three hours our quilombo was run up and put into something like order, so that we were enabled to accept in comfort an invitation of the captain's to dinner.

We were much struck on entering the residence, at the novel aspect it presented. A vast verandah, not unlike those of the Arab tembes, having been traversed, we reached an inner pateo or court, having at one side the kitchen, partly concealed and sheltered by bananas and a paling, about which were cutting half a dozen little niggers, a couple of pigs, a dozen or so fowls, a. monkey, a gazelle, and a parrot. The opposite side was taken up with the living-rooms of the establishment, and -in one of them, which did duty as drawing and dining-room, appeared the welcome, and, to us, uncommon sight of a long table covered with a white cloth, having dishes containing smoking viands ranged down the centre, and a couple of bottles of wine at each corner !

The succulent food brought to our recollection a sub- ject we had frequently discussed when we had nothing to stay our hunger ; and we unanimously concurred, at this joyous moment, that we should not eat merely to live, for that a tender, juicy, delicately-browned beef- steak produced, in its consumption, sensations of the mind as well as the body that were worthy of mature consideration.

We were quite touched when our worthy host uttered the simple compliment, "Will you please be seated?" and the first spoonful of hot soup really did bring tears into our eyes ; we recovered courage, however, as we got

A civilized Dinner

47

on, and before half an hour had gone by, found ourselves hob-nobbing with one another with as much ease as if we had been used to that sort of thing all through our adventurous journey.

NEST OF THE CAPAT^-IEU.

48 West and Central Africa.

CHAPTER III.

On the tramp again — The banks of the Lu-calla and a nice dispute — Cateco, the hunter of wives — The Jinga, its limits and importance — The king, titles and residence — Hierarchical scale — Peculiar mode of bestowal of property — The ma-lunga and quijinga — The Muco-N'Gola or Mona N'Grola— Strange head-dresses and queer pockets — On the summit of the Serra Catanha — A love episode and its unpleasant close — Conjugal relations — An evening discus- sion and a morning flight— Mineral wealth of the Jinga — Mode of preparing cloth, dwellings, &c. — A storm in the forest, and a further desertion — Den of thieves — A page or two from the diary — A tough cow — Arrival at Cafuchila.

Twenty-four days have elapsed since the memorable dinner recorded in the last chapter, the same scenes being repeated while we waited for the cessation of the rains ; sometimes absorbing quinine in larger or smaller doses, at others lying in bed without a sight either of earth or sky.

We had reached the 26th of April, exactly 532 days since we left Benguella for our journey northwards, but in spite of our mishaps our disposition to push onwards remained as strong as ever. We considered our honour and our dignity alike embarked in the solution of the problem we had set ourselves, and, determined to make our constancy overcome the difficulties by which we were beset, we made all preparations for a departure on the first favourable opportunity. The weather alone now stood in our way.

In order again to reach the basin of the Cuango it

An zincomfortable Strike. 49

was necessary to cross great part of the kingdom of the Jinga — a territory that our informants depicted in the darkest colours, whilst they could scarcely find terms strong enough to portray the exactions and tyranny of the supreme ruler. We were getting, however, quite case-hardened in our scepticism, and resolved to judge for ourselves.

Thus it happened that at daybreak of the 28th of April, 1879, without even waiting for the preparation of the morning meal, we set off for the margin of the river, where a miserable canoe had been placed at our disposal.

The banks of the Lu-calla are almost entirely com- posed of marsh, so that we had no choice but to be con- veyed upon men's shoulders, whereof several brawny ones were at once offered for our accommodation. As these offers came from the natives of the district, and addi- tional hands are always welcome, we gladly accepted their proposal, our guide promising them a couple of yards of cloth each by way of remuneration, with which they appeared to be perfectly satisfied.

When, however, we were about half way through, the cunning rogues struck for higher wages, and vowed they would go no further !

In Europe, where contracting parties have reason to be discontented with the working of a contract, it is a usual thing to have recourse to arbitration to settle the dispute ; but as that was not the custom in Africa, and the fellows threatened to let us clown in the mud and deep water unless their demands were complied with, we were forced to put our indignation and sense of the justice of our , case in our pockets until we felt firm ground under our feet again.

We were then near the residence of the Sova Zundo- ia-Faco, into which we entered with a rush, followed by

VOL. II. E

50 West and Ceittral Africa.

the mutinous Jingas. We found that chief, whom we immediately recognized by the possession of a battered old hat, squatted on the ground in the open air, adorn- ing the sides of a rough kind of bench of his own manu- facture, his Majesty having, apparently, a turn for carpentry.

Having coolly appropriated the bench for our own use, we sat down on it, in order to plead our cause, leaving the Sova the choice of the ground, and for two mortal hours we discussed the question of our agreement with the men, which terminated in our being compelled to give them three yards each instead of two.

On the 30th of April we had run up our quilombo near the dwelling of the OWck-ia-Legho, when a man introduced himself as one willing to act as a guide.

As we were examining him from head to foot, he quietly seated himself, and began to relate his story. Having the " gift of the gab," and being as well versed in gesticulation as a Neapolitan, he had uttered in ten minutes quite enough to fill some volumes, and had thrown his arms and legs about like the sails of a mill in a heavy gale, during the whole of which performance we remained perfectly quiescent, partly from a feeling of politeness, but more through not understanding a twentieth part of what he said.

When he had finished, our interpreter gave us a brief summary of his discourse. According to his own account he was a proficient in the highways and by-ways of the district, was well acquainted with sovas in general and with a good many in particular ; was one of the most disinterested members of his profession (that of a hunter), which he had adopted from inclination, and whence sprang many advantages, the chief among which being the ready acquirement of many wives culled

A new Giade. 51

from various countries, all of whom were passionately fond of him, and lived in perfect harmony with each other.

As we regarded his sour aspect and wrinkled skin, we could not but think that some of these African dames must be rather easily contented.

He went on to say that having got tired of one of these same spouses, with whom he had been living through the rains, he had resolved to go northwards for a little change of air, and in order to see another of his wives whom he had not set eyes on for upwards of a twelvemonth.

Well, we thought, if the possession of a number of wives can be considered in this country as a guarantee of respectability, here is a respectable man par excel- lence. A nephew of our visitor who stood by seemed almost to divine our meditations, for as we made them he gravely nodded his head in the affirmative.

" As you know the country so well," we remarked, oblige us by saying which you consider the best road to the territory of the Hungo."

" By taking this direction," he answered, pointing to the west-north-west, " and passing by the Serra Catanha, a man would find himself in very uncomfortable quarters, as it is the district of the Quibungo Quiassama — a terrible tyrant. On the north-east he would find an even worse character in Tembo Aluma ; so I should advise as the most reasonable step, to proceed directly to the king's court."

" The king's court ! " The words raised our sus- picions that it was another attempt to impose upon us. Still, we let it go ; and having engaged his services, we dismissed him for the night with the words : — ■

" We shall start northwards on the morrow, so, at break of day, be in readiness, here."

e 2

52 West and Central Africa.

A couple of " calling as " exchanged between us put an end to the interview, and he had scarcely retired than we found ourselves face to face with the sova of the district, one of the most silent of his class we ever met with. As we had just as little to say to him, we made him a present of six yards, and then, retiring to our huts, we posted up our notes and went to bed, passing in a sound sleep the last hours of the month of April — the spring time of the dear old country.

We were now in the very heart of the Jinga (a queen of which country figures in the sonnets of Bocage), now- adays a mere reflex of its former grandeur ; it is divided into three provinces, Sussa, Danje, and Dongo, and has recently received an acquisition of territory in the shape of the Matamba lands. Its boundaries are the Cuango on the east, and the Lu-calla on the west ; while on the north it is limited by Hungo, and on the south by Holo. Its commercial importance is almost nil.

The Jinga, like all old and decaying nations, is allow- ing itself to drift along the downward path which leads to utter ruin and annihilation. The autocrat of the Jinga bears the title of king, a designation which struck us as rather pretentious, seeing that he differs but little in appearance or intellect from the commonest carrier. The monarchs of the country are always styled N'golas Quilluanjes Quissambas, though they have their own special names, that of the reigning king being Calunga N'Dombo Acambo. He resides in a senzala pompously styled a " court," surrounded by many vassals, dukes, counts, marquises, and what not, whom he uses for his own pleasure and advantage.

The Jinga is divided, not into fiefs, as there are no direct lords, but a large number of estates frequently held for life, and which as they fall in are bestowed by

The Jinga Court. 53

the monarch upon whomsoever he thinks fit. He is governed in his choice by considerations which will appear in the hasty sketch we append of the complicated hierarchical-social scale of the government.

The first dignitaries in the order of their rank are the vundas (a species of duke); the second the candas (a sort of count), followed by quilluanjes, znndos, dambis, capelles, catecos, n'gola-n boles (a kind of secretary), matomuzmnos, &c, who occupy the estates above referred

JINGA TYPE.

to, surrounded by their slaves, and form the royal suite.

Whenever one of these personages dies, his nearest of kin does not, on account of his relationship, succeed him, since such an arrangement would not suit his Majesty's views. Various wealthy, ambitious individuals are sure to step in and make lumping offers for the vacant property, which is, in fact, put up to a species of

54 West and Central Africa.

auction, with this difference, that the matter is held pending sometimes as long as six months, in order that the competitors may continue pouring their valuable stores into the king's warehouses, there to await his decision, and, it is needless to say, are charged pretty heavy warehousage in the shape of exactions.

When the matter is finally settled the successful man is undado (invested or sworn-in), and receives a ma- lung a1 (bracelet), and the qui-jinga or ca-jinga (cap), with the declaration of vunda or canda, and he may then in his turn select his subalterns, or as it is politely termed may appoint m'jpembas of ma-tomuzumo n'gola- n'bole, &c. A personage so invested need only doff his qai-jinga in presence of the king, to whom he always does obeisance, by touching the ground with his lips and clapping the palms of his hands together. He may also put the prefix of calunga or noble to his name, just as the monarch himself uses the term of mueniche. Finally, repairing to his estate, he becomes lord of all it contains.

The Jingas style themselves Muco-N'Gola, or Mona- N'Gola. In shape, they are well- formed but slender, very dark in colour and of a uniform tint. They affect a great variety of hair- dressing, the favourite form being a great bunch on the top of the head, adorned with bands, braids, plumes of feathers, spiral strips of brass, plates of the same metal, beads, &c.

"We were considerably amused wifch their pockets, which, owing to the monstrous size of their coiffures they arrange on the tops of their heads with the opening behind ! Into this they thrust every small article the

1 We should have thought, as there is only one, that qui-lunga would have been the more correct expression ; as, however, we never heard it so used, we give it as we found it.

Don Jtcan again. 55

hollow will contain, the woolly texture of the hair aiding considerably to keep it in. Their dexterity in putting away anything that was given to them was such that it appeared on our first acquaintance with these people very like sleight of hand, for we saw the upward movement of the arm to the back of the head, and noted the hand come back empty ; and as politeness would not allow us to go round to see what had become of it, we at last procured an answer to the enigma from our own people.

At noon, on the 2nd of May, under a blazing sun, we arrived pretty well fagged on the slope of the Serra Catanha, where, under the shade of a leafy acacia, we spent nearly an hour in philosophical meditation, drying our garments, drenched with perspiration, and munching manioc root.

From the summit of the mount we had a fine view of the extensive plains of the kingdom of the Jinga, com- mencing by the Province of Dongo. Senzalas, scattered about in every direction, represented the estates above alluded to, and whereof some canda or vuncla, with a few dozen slaves as attendants, was the lord and master. In the distance, on the banks of the Hamba, rose the pretended court, surrounded by the dwellings of the king's retinue, while numerous flocks and herds gave animation to the green hills.

While engaged in the contemplation of this beautiful scene we were startled by a tremendous hubbub in the direction of the senzala and at once hurried hither to learn the cause.

We might have guessed as much. Don Juan was at his old tricks again, and we could not help thinking that if he only showed in the field of danger a tenth part of the boldness which distinguished him in the paths of love, he would have made a famous hero.

56 West and Central Africa.

And yet — to look at him — lie was one of the most un- likely beings to command success in those same paths that the eye could well light upon ; it was his consum- mate impudence and vanity that spurred him on, and made him frequently successful where a handsome but a modest, retiring man would not have had the ghost of a chance.

He was short, thin, bow-legged, prematurely aged by excesses of all kinds; bore on his scraggy neck a huge head with a sinister-looking face, to which two ill-shaped, yellow, furtive and cunning eyes occasionally lent an expression of revolting ugliness — certainly not removed by a pair of lips of enormous thickness, which only parted to show his broken and irregular teeth. This is no exaggerated portrait of Capulca, whom we pompously styled our chef, and who, in spite of these physical defects, was the most terrible lady-killer it was ever our fate to fall in with.

On the present occasion, time hanging rather heavily on his hands — for our meals were not of that extensive character to occupy very much of his attention — he con- ceived that it would be an agreeable pastime to bandy soft speeches with some of the lady inhabitants of the district, and actually persuaded one of them to take a stroll with him in the fields. Whether at her invitation or not, it matters little, he accompanied her back to her dwelling, and was just entering the doorway when he almost flattened his nose against the master of the house and husband of the lady, who at once, pouncing upon him, called for assistance and had him secured. That was Act the First.

In Act the Second we find him roaring for mercy under the infliction of a dozen lashes or so, well laid on by one of the government delegates ; and when he was let

Marital Arrangements. 57

loose more dead than alive, the scene was closed by his having to pay a thumping fine to the fair one's sposo.

It is somewhat in this fashion that most of their amorous delinquencies are punished — the lash being spared where the woman is at fault, but vigorously applied if the misdemeanant be a man. This was sum- mary justice, we thought, with a vengeance ; yet some- how it commended itself in many ways to our judgment, when we compared it with some of the long and tedious processes with which we had become familiar in old Europe.

The native system, however, in treating offences against the marriage laws cannot always be approved, as the following instances will show : A lady, becoming tired of daily intercourse with her lord, clandestinely quits bis roof and finds a home with a more congenial companion. The husband, in order to remove any difficulties that such a proceeding might involve, seeks out the new protector, and in the most business-like way demands an indemnity, which the latter invariably pays. Should he be averse to keep the frail one, he pays some- thing more, in accordance with an amicable arrangement between the parties, and in this case the husband takes back his wife without any disturbance of his equanimity ; indeed, the gentlemanly way in which the whole affair is conducted is beyond all praise.

That incorrigible rascal, Capulca, elected the former course, and in spite of his sore back, after he had paid his fine he coolly requested that the caravan might be augmented by an additional member, in the shape of his new spouse !

Abandoning at length the shade of the friendly acacia, where, in addition to our cook's escapade we had a few words with Cateco, our new guide, who had, by accident

58 West and Central Africa.

or design, mistaken his road, we camped on the edge of the Serra at no great distance from the residence of the noble 0<z7?<i<z-ria-Massango. A little further in advance was the dwelling of another of these lordlings, called OWtZa-ria-Canzella, a perfect bully of a fellow, hope- lessly given up to drunkenness.

This latter came to the quilombo to visit us, at the very time we had another visitor from Duque de Bra- ganca, a trader there of the name of Figueiredo. This gentleman had come over to explore the neighbourhood in our company, but the whole of the day till nightfall was taken up with a hot discussion between himself and the petty chief, the subject being a lady of whom Mr. Figueiredo had been deprived.

After worrying us to the limits of our patience, one of the disputants got dead drunk and the other went to bed ; nor did we wait to hear the result of the contention, which was certain to be renewed next day, for having snatched an hour or two of sleep, at three in the morn- ing, before it was light, we quitted the place, leaving plaintiff and defendant in the arms of Morpheus.

We trudged along the lofty heights of the Serra Catanha, whose eastern flank, the work doubtless of some convulsion of nature, was seamed by steep preci- pices, exhibiting here and there huge blocks of sandstone and granite, fantastically shaped in the semblance of turreted castles and frowning fortresses.

The region is evidently rich in minerals. Silver appears to be exceedingly abundant, as various of the dignitaries who called upon us wore bracelets and anklets, and carried large batons of that metal. We could get, however, no reliable information concerning the mines whence the metal was obtained, or respecting the process employed in the working.

Taenia.

59

Taenia is perhaps one of the most important staples of the trade of the country, if we might judge by the quantity of people we saw collecting this wood and heaping it in piles. It is employed for various purposes, such as staining the hair and body, but more particu- larly for dyeing cloth. The natives of the Jinga are

CATECO, THE GUIDE.

accustomed to use it very much for this latter purpose, the natives asserting that it preserves the fabric and keeps it cleaner. They moreover make an infusion of taenia, dust, and oil, steep cloth therein for some days, and then expose it to the sun. The result is a species

60 West and Central Africa.

of oil-cloth, which may be useful in keeping out water, but it stinks abominably.

The dwellings of the Jingas were unlike any we had yet seen. In shape they were elliptical, the sides being of grass thickly interwoven, with, the door at one of the ends of the larger axis, sheltered by a porch with trellis- work. They were not wanting in picturesqueness, and some of them were neat and pretty.

To the north of the road we were pursuing, lay the territory of Matamba, and on the east the Dongo, whose extreme limit, just visible in the distance, was marked by an irregular blue line. Our guide Cateco steered his course unhesitatingly through the territory. His gait was almost as regular as that of an automaton, his step firm and assured as a hunter's should be, and with his long gun over his shoulder, he climbed mountains or strode down into valleys, crossed ravines or forded brooks with the same equanimity, merely stopping at a place where two paths diverged to exclaim,—

" N'gila murno, n'gana " (This way, gentlemen), or perhaps, to save himself the necessity of uttering even this brief explanation, he would simply block the road we were not to take by bending a bough across it, or placing a bramble at the commencement of the track.

Having thus travelled northward for some distance we arrived, tired and panting, at a village belonging to the Canda-rm-Ijumbombo, where we raised our huts and spent the rest of the day in scientific labours. Next morning, however, the 4th of May, by daybreak, we were again upon the road, making for the lands of the Zundo- ia-Cassungo.

The weather, which had been fresh and clear since our entry into the territory of the Danje, became suddenly overcast and threatening. A suffocating heat made the

Desertions. 6 1

earth crack in every direction, and the first drops of rain that fell were immediately dried up. Large masses of cloud, rolling quickly up from the south-east, portended a storm near at hand. Not a leaf stirred ; the motion- less trees, white with dust, seemed anxiously waiting and looking for the water that was to put fresh vigour into their drooping sprays.

Within a few paces of us, in the ravines which bordered our path to the westward, lay the sources of the river liamba, a large affluent of the Cambo, visited by us for the first time. Crossing to the left side by a rude bridge, we suddenly came to a halt through an unforeseen cir- cumstance that occasioned us fresh embarrassment. We were first attracted by loud shouts in the rear, and hastening back to inquire the cause learned from Jose, one of our guides, that seven of the carriers had deserted with their guns, and left their loads in the middle of the path to take care of themselves ! Jose assured us he had made every possible effort to dissuade them from their purpose, but without effect, the only answer they deigned to make to his persuasions and arguments being " tund'enu" (We are off), and off they went.

It was not easy to arrive at a clear explanation of such conduct. Fear, perhaps, had something to do with it, the apprehension of going further northwards into a region which they felt convinced was peopled by cannibals ; but there were evidently additional motives in the shape of disputes and quarrels with other members of the caravan, and something besides which they did not choose to reveal to Jose.

Their defection could not have been worse timed, for at that moment the storm burst over us and the rain began to fall as it only does come down in this country. We immediately called a council beneath the shelter of

62 West and Central Africa.

an acacia, as we really for the moment did not know what better to do. Canght as we were, perfectly unprepared, the men standing about looking like so many sheep, dripping with water, the thunder- claps, so loud and in- cessant that we could with difficulty hear ourselves speak, and the groaning of the trees as they bent beneath the tempest of wind and rain, rarely did we feel so utterly non-plussed as on that occasion.

As the goods lay out in the open, our first care was to get them round us, to which end the guide went off with some of the men, and this being done we did our best to distribute them over every working member of the caravan. After a deal of chopping and changing, grum- bling and persuasions, we succeeded, after half an hour's hard work, in settling the matter to our minds, and valiantly trudged off through the forest, though we were wet to the skin. It need scarcely be said that we did not wish every kind of felicity might befall the fugitives ; indeed, I am afraid we mentally consigned them to very uncomfortable quarters — a sentence which, though it did them no harm, was a miserable kind of balsam to our own feelings.

In the laying on of this " flattering unction," we were heartily assisted by the carriers who had to bear the increased burthen caused by the flight of their fellows, and even Capulca, whose antecedents might have taught him to be silent upon such a subject, broke in with, —

" Oh ! let them alone, senhors, before the sun sets, they will find out their mistake. It is ill joking with the sovas of the Jinga, and what with their viondas and candas and catecos, our friends will have a lively time of it. For my part, I wouldn't take a dozen steps away from the caravan, for all the goods in the world ! Only a few days ago — "

A heavy Storm. 63

As this commencement threatened to have a long yarn at the end of it, we requested him to fall into his place. With the temperature at 86°, and a tropical rain falling, one is but little disposed to listen to long stories.

The tempest had now reached its height, and we had no other resource than to pack ourselves into the smallest compass, so as to present the least possible sur- face to the elements and as we crouched under the trees let the water as it poured down the napes of our necks find an exit at our boots ! These frightful storms are bad enough to bear when the traveller has taken certain precautions against them, but when they catch him unawares they are simply atrocious. The sheets of rain, by converting the soil into paste, obliterate every vestige of the track, while the water considerably increases the weight the men have to carry. The clouds are so dense, and so completely shut out the sky, that within the forest it becomes black night, with all the horrors attend- ing the hours of darkness ; the flashes of lightning, as they partially illuminate the scene, give to the gaunt trunks of the trees the appearance of the bars of some gigantic cage, in which the dripping, miserable wayfarer is caught without the chance of an escape, while to the rolling of the thunder is added the soughing of the wind, the crash of breaking branches, the swishing of the rain, and other nameless unintelligible sounds that a lively imagination or a superstitious mind converts so easily into the groanings and repinings of uneasy spirits !

A tempest, fortunately, does not endure for ever, and it is short in proportion to its violence. So after a time the clouds broke; a patch or two of blue sky became visible through the rents, a ray of sun shot through another aperture and widened the breach thus made, till the forest was illuminated with the golden haze and the

64 West and Central Africa.

sun-light glistened in every raindrop and puddle; the black masses of vapour rolled away, the earth steamed beneath the glowing heat, and one began to wonder at the fancies which an hour ago held the mind enthralled.

Giving ourselves a shake or two as a clog does on issuing from the water, we resumed our journey, camp- ing at two o'clock near the senzala of the chief Zundo-m- Cassungo, at the base of Serra Catucua.

The 5th of May broke serene and beautiful, and we set out in good spirits for a long march. That amiable disposition was not, however, destined to last long, for Cateco, who had views of his own, guided us through paths and by-ways which seemed to lead to the habitations of every acquaintance he possessed in the neighbourhood. We found them to be perfect dens of thieves, where our patience was put to the severest test, and our means were diminished to an alarming degree.

Innumerable vundas, all of them grasping rascals, wanted cloth, beads, aguardente, on the largest scale and on little or no pretext whatsoever. First there was a certain Fzmdb-ia-Navina, then an impudent Cambaxe, further on a Vunda-m-^uta, at a few dozen paces in ad- vance a Fim^a-ia-N'gola-Quilluanje, a little while after- wards a F?mcZa-ia-Miquenha ; a very horde of cringing or hectoring nobles, whose capacity for swallowing every thing that they could beg or worry out of us was infinite.

Boiling with rage, we encamped near a small river, the Quimbaxe, apprehensive of going any further that day, lest we should be utterly despoiled. Another reason was, the extreme interest attaching to the country round, which we found it impossible to examine or survey whilst our minds were worried with resisting extortion and paying tolls.

Happily, an apprenticeship of many months engenders

Extracts from the Diary. 65

a certain practical scientific experience, and the traveller who is accustomed to note the orography of the lands he is passing through, the direction of the mountain chains and their ramifications, the sources of streams and rivers, &c, acquires a rapidity of glance and observation that enables him considerably to abridge the labours of the field. Thus it is, that with a couple of extreme latitudes and longitudes, two opposite azimuths and a tour half- way, he has no difficulty in committing to paper the rivers whose courses he falls in with, the direction of their sources, their sinuosities, and the bearing of the serras — a sketch which a subsequent careful examination in his hut enables him to complete to his satisfaction.

We extract from the diary the notes of the two fol- lowing days, the 6th and 7th of May, for being jotted down at the time they will serve better than any narra- tive to enlighten our readers upon what an explorer has frequently to endure upon his inarch.

Portuguese- African Expedition.

May 6, 1879. Page 510.

Aneroid 2272 ft. (uucorrd.) Temperature 82° Fahr.

2.10 p.m. Camped near the River Candanje, to the N.W. of a lofty peak of Serra Catucua, 2-15° true (Lu-ache and Cambo, rivers), 76° true? in parallel 8° 22' S. O mer. = 72'06 ; azimuth rect. 150° true.

To-day's journey infernal ; broken, frightful ground, through two ravines, Catucua on the W. and Temo on the E. forming the basin of the Hamba. Scaled and descended eight steep mounts, of not less than 1000 feet, which half-killed us with fatigue.

Our guide, who knows the country, tells us that between here and the Quango the ground will get gradually worse ; and that the next twenty-five days' march will be nothing but ups and downs, the moun- tains and valleys covered with lofty vegetation.

From this point we see the Hamba, which by a narrow curve opens out to the N.E through rocky banks.

To the W. of the camp mountains and valleys intercept the view.

"We have just visited two graves close by, respecting Avhich we heard VOL. II. F

06 West and Central Africa.

a story somewhat in the style of the fable of the two crickets that managed to devour each other.

A couple of natives had started from the coast together, in order to sell their goods : on their return they camped near this spot to divide the proceeds.

As, however, they disagreed in the process, from words they came to blows, and in the end killed one another.

They seem also to have buried each other besides, for an eye-witness* who saw them lying dead in the eveniug, found only their toes stickiug out of the earth at sunrise next day !

We should have liked to question that witness as to whether he had covered up their toes !

Portuguese-African Expedition.

May 7, 1879. Page 511.

Aneroid 2275 ft. Temperature 80J ° Fahr.

Broke up camp at 7.30 a.m.

Fresh labour and difficulties. These marches are very trying to the men, who have already had eighteen months of it in the interior.

The road to-day was along a track which, in the space of a quarter of an hour, led us north, south, and east.

Covered with huge flints, it was a perfect ankle-trap, with vegetation in between, that made the passage of a heavily-laden man all but impossible.

The carriers, cut, bruised, and exhausted, refused to go any further. Poor fellows ! we pitied them from our hearts, with their seventy pounds' weight to. carry !

The path led us from Candanje to Calling a-M\id'i\le ; thence to Calling a-N'bondo, and finally to CaZwn^a-Mutomba, where we are now camped ; the entire road running along the edge of the great precipice lying on our left.

•at* <&t» .m. jg» *m» je» 4t» ' «ai»

We closed the events of the day just recorded (the 7th of May) by a hot discussion with the Sova, Galunga- N'bondo, who in the most delicate and polite manner wanted to force upon us one of his oxen. As we refused to accede to such an arrangement, which we knew would be a dear bargain, that rascally Cateco determined to second his intentions, and on the 8th at daybreak, start-

Treachery of the Guide.

67

ing at the head of the caravan, by previous agreement with the too generous chief, he guided us by a path which turned out to be a cul-de-sac, and left us in a deep river, called the Mucuna, and took to his heels !

After searching about for a path in vain, we had to retrace our steps, and found ourselves at length almost at the spot we had started from.

ALL BUT LOST.

We managed to catch our guide, and on the following day took a northerly direction, but got on so slowly that on arriving at Mahabo we found the herd waiting for us that we might select one of the animals.

Then ensued a discussion that lasted hours. The Sova did not want to sell, but to give us a beast, only, by way of preliminary ; he himself wanted a present of sixteen pieces of cloth !

¥ 2'

68

West and Central Afi

nca.

We came to an arrangement at last, the high contract- ing party letting us have a fat cow, but which turned out to be so old and tough that we could scarce get our teeth into the meat when it was cooked.

We were informed that this was one of the wealthiest

WE POUND THE HERD WAITING.

Sovas of the Jinga, an assertion we readily believed, judg- ing from his extensive herds of cattle. We could not help observing, however, that all his wealth failed to secure him respect, for the animal having been brought down and quartered, all the natives who had been engaged in

The river Cn-ilo. 69

the occupation, took up their little bundles, and turning their backs upon the great man, sneaked quietly off.

It is a noteworthy circumstance that the possession of this world's goods does not of itself insure superiority among these people : it merely secures to their owner the advantage of satisfying his inclinations. That feeling of respect, which in the old country is shown towards the great capitalist, seems to be quite unknown here. This is due, probably, to the fact that some of the wealthiest Sovas are the most exacting, and will stoop to the meanest actions to increase their store.

The real aristocracy of the country, if we may use such a term in connexion with these savages, is the hunter whose prowess is indicated by the number of skin rings bound about his weapon — each ring showing an animal brought down — or the warrior who has distin- guished himself in battle, or the man who has dared to penetrate into a region till then unknown. These hold the highest place in public esteem, and are not unfre- quently selected for important offices at court.

Sick of all the petty annoyances to which we had lately been subjected, we longed for a quiet spot where we could find rest, and shouldering our dismembered old cow, we set off in search of such a desideratum. We did not, however, find one to our mind till the 16th of the month, when, having gone over some fearful ground, we sighted, near the bank of the Cu-ilo, a river for the first time marked down, the residence of Cafuchila, one of the principal Sovas of the Hungo, whom Cateco specially recommended to us.

On a nearer approach, we were informed that the ruler himself did not reside there, but only a sister. Still, as it was of small interest to us whether it were a sister or a brother, we encamped in due course.

7o

West and Central Africa.

But if we were indifferent to the subject, others did not take the same view of our proceeding, as the reader will learn in the next chapter. We will merely observe, on closing this, that two hours after our arrival we learned that it was not a sister who lived there after all, but the Sova himself who had just departed this life ; then they told us that the Sova was not dead, but had decamped ; and finally this was again corrected by the assertion that the chief had gone on a journey !

" Anyway, what does it matter to us ? " we exclaimed, " whether the man be dead, run away, or travelling ? "

" But," explained Cateco, " they want to go and fetch him."

" Let them go, and good luck go with them."

It turned out to be bad luck for us ; and little did we dream when planting our huts in that longed-for spot, that we should be the poorer by twenty pieces m of cloth ere we got quit of it !

SHABPIA ANGOLENS1S.

CHAPTER IV.

The Hnngo and its people — Head-dresses — Tobacco and snuff — Ugli- ness of the women, their indifference to dress — Low estimation in which they are held — The monarch of the Congo — Preparations for departure — Discussions Avith the natives — Sudden dissolution of a meeting — Abandoned senzalas — A little looting — Lake Tiber — The camp kitchen and an old acquaintance — A siesta disagreeably interrupted — Flight of the caravan — Fallen among thieves — A trial and a singular decision — The forest fired — Woods and vegeta- tion— Quadrumans and reptiles — What explorers have to expect — Discovery of the river Cu-gho — Varieties of trees — Passage of the river and African cunning — A rest in the forest.

We are now in the territory of the Hungo, and have as yet said nothing of the aspect and customs of its inhabi- tants, for the simple reason that as the data had to be culled from the notes of our diary, we have only at present reached the point where we can properly speak of them.

The natives of this part of the continent, who are called ma-hungo, have a special type, very different to that which distinguishes the people further south. From the moment of our entry into Matamba, we began to re- mark that difference principally observable in the colour of the skin and the mode of dressing the hair. To the jet black of the Jinga had succeeded the mahogany hue of the Ma-hungo ; and in place of the trim bands and plaits of the former, we found a far more simple style adopted in the Matamba. The Ma-hungo men do not

7 2 West and Central Africa.

plait tlieir hair at all, but either leave the wool alone, or, shaving portion of the head, adorn the sides with blue glass beads or other more common ones.

Their dress is a simple c]oth suspended from the girdle, with a brass bracelet on the wrist ; they carry a musket whereof the metal is kept clean and well-polished, and occasionally a curved sabre of the old huzzar fashion, with metal sheath.

They cut away the two front teeth to the gum, and sometimes the two lower ones also, which gives them a most repulsive appearance. In their mode of life they are barbarous to a high degree. They anoint and dis- figure their bodies with oil and clay, and they carry with them in consequence a bouquet, that is perceptible at several yards' distance.

Both men and women smoke incessantly. Nicotiana tabacum with a large lance-shaped leaf abounds, together with another quality having a round leaf (N. rustica or vulgaris ?) that is sold by the leaf or in small conical piles in which it is packed. Their most inveterate vice, however, is that of snuff-taking, which all more or less indulge in. They use for the purpose cylindrical boxes, wherein they put the dried or toasted leaf, that is pounded with a small wooden pestle, and they add pepper to it to give the mixture a more pungent flavour. Their mode of taking it is peculiar : thrusting into the box a stalk of the massambala with part of the ear attached, as if it were a spoon, they fill the little cavity with snuff, carry it to the nostrils, and inhale it with a powerful sniff. The operation so far is the mere indul- gence of a vice ; but with most of them it does not stop there, for the operator, introducing the little spoon for a second time into the box, smears all the upper lip with the powder, which sticks there readily enough through the

THE LADIES OF THE IIUNGO.

Page 73.

The Women of the Hungo. 73

running from the nose, and this done, he or she seems very proud of the disgusting result.

We said he or she, for the ladies indulge in this habit quite as frequently as their lords, and the effect may be imagined when, their mouths and noses plastered over with the yellow powder, they open their lips and display their toothless jaws !

As we are upon the subject of the gentler sex, we will add a few more words about these degenerate daughters of Eve. The women of the Hungo are, in general, far uglier than the men, and their savage appearance is in harmony only with the soil on which they live. The mahogany colour of the skin, not uniformly tinted, but often patched and spotty, is not by any means so agree- able to the eye as the shiny jet of the natives further south. As one meets them abroad en grande toilette (that is to say as bare as the palm of one's hand) with a layer of clay upon their heads to keep down the woolly hair, a pipe in the month, a snuff-box dangling from the girdle, powerful limbs (many of them are five feet nine inches in height) a basket suspended by a narrow leather thong from their foreheads, and hanging down the back, — a feeling of- pity is mingled with the disgust which the sight of them occasions.

They seem to have the most sovereign contempt for any sort of clothing, if we except a little scrap of baize, which they wear like an apron, only behind instead of before. Thirty times to one they rejected the cloth we offered them, taking beads in preference, to adorn the flat tresses that surround their head, and which represent the labour of months — perfect nests, wherein the parasites must lead a quiet, peaceful life, and multiply undisturbed. If by any chance they did accept a piece of cloth, they gave it to their husband, or wrapped their

74 West and Central Africa.

child in it, or made any use of it rather than to cover their own nakedness.

They appear to be held in esteem merely as beasts of burthen ; and if we had any doubt concerning the exist- ence of love, as a sentiment, among the tribes further south, we can have no hesitation in affirming that not a scintilla of it is to be found here. Everything is absolutely practical. A man appreciates his cows far more than he does his wives, and will make sacrifices to recover the former if stolen or strayed, but as to the latter, they may disappear without any hue or cry being made after them.

The dances to which we have more than once referred in the course of our narrative are practised here, but all their grotesqueness has disappeared, and left nothing but the obscenity, in which the women take the most active part.

Their dwellings are filthily dirty ; and their clay utensils are clumsily made; nor do the other articles with which they adorn the interior of their huts, and that are familiar to the reader, display any greater taste or skill. There are mortars, drums, benches, stools, bows, lances, canes, wooden platters, oars, fetishes, calibashes, cartouch-boxes, powder-horns, bracelets, pipes, knives, marimbas, and other things which the Ma-hungo, like their congeners, manufacture for their use, but they are rude and unfinished.

The supreme authority acknowledged by this people, who are indubitably of a different origin from those in the south, is the King of the Congo, residing in the north at St. Salvador, one of the three monarchs of whom they have any notion; the other two being the King of Portugal, and the King of the Jinga.

In the afternoon of the third day of our sojourn in Cafuchila, the guide, Cateco, appeared before us and

Something. Wrong. 75

-£> " - -. —,&

inquired in a queer sort of way whether we still intended to start next morning as we proposed.

" 016 ! " was our reply. " Of course we shall leave ; the Sova does not appear ; only his sister is at home, and we have no idea of taking root in this place."

Turning on his heels with an insolent air, he walked off towards the village, as if to make the necessary arrangements, but hours flew by and he did not return to the quilombo.

The night passed over quietly enough, and with the first blush of day we began to get all the goods ready for departure, and sent for Cateco ; but he was not to bo found; the rascal was hiding for some purpose of his own, and we had once again to leave without a guide.

No sooner had we commenced our march than we began to understand the position of matters, for in almost every direction we heard the confused sounds of large bodies of men, followed shortly after by the beating of the war-drums, and the appearance in the neighbouring woods of many armed natives. We were surrounded, that was clear ; and according to their notions we had committed some crime, of which we were pro- foundly ignorant, but which we were expected to pay for.

In the course of a few moments there issued from the grove on the left three warriors in company of the traitor Cateco, with feathers stuck into their heads and making threatening gestures.

Our first impulse was to rush upon the fellow and give him what he well merited — a thoroughly good thrashing. But the rascal, as if divining our intention, no sooner saw us approach than he took to flight, his long, thin legs and arms, and lanky body, surmounted by his plumed head, giving him the appearance of an African flamingo. His companions had some difficulty to catch him for the

76 West and Central Africa.

intended conference, and when they did the whole four returned ; then one of them, after a short silence, and in a harsh voice, gave vent to the following pithy dis- course : —

" Muene Puto ! The Ma-hungo are wrath with you. The sister of Cafuchila, now in charge of the state, has been deceived by you, as you said you would await the Sova. Did she not send you one of her macotas to hear from your own lips that you would await the coming of the Sova who is now two suns' journey distant ? "

" She did," we replied.

" Did you not say that you would wait ? "

" We did,"

" Is she not the lady of these lands ? "

" She may be so."

" Did she not give you flour for your daily food ? "

" Well, not exactly give, she sold it us."

" Anyway, you cannot quit this place because you have not two tongues ! Either stop or go back : if you do otherwise, you must pay."

It being now our innings, we posed in a proper attitude, and putting Jose, our interpreter, in front of us, uttered in a measured way the following words :—

" Macotas ! We came here to pay a visit to the Sova ; we did not find him, for which our heart is much afflicted, and therefore we are about to pursue our onward journey. We never dreamed of possessing two tongues, a monstrosity which only an error of nature could produce. We are good and loyal friends " (Jose could make nothing of the loyal, so he substituted fat, which no doubt answered the purpose just as well), " what reason, there- fore, have you to act as you are doing? Does it not appear to you treachery towards the whites ? If you were in the country of the whites, think you we should

A Conference. jj

act as you are doing ? It is not our intention to flee from the Sova, and as a proof of our friendship we have here a present to offer him."

At this point we thought matters were looking a little brighter, when the trio interrupted us with, —

" What is your present ? "

" A piece of gingham, half a piece of cotton, and six handkerchiefs," we replied, trying to look as grave as judges.

"Uh-ehl" exclaimed the three rogues together, " Cafuchila is a great Muene, he governs all this land ; he is greater than Tembo Aluma, greater than Quinbungo Quiassama ; only the Mani-Congo is greater than he. He allows no one to pass without permission. Eh- eh ! wait one day longer and he will be here. He has not seen the whites ; he wishes to talk to them and drink aguardente with them ; wait, wait two days longer and he will come."

What is the use, we argued between ourselves, of con- tinuing all this palaver ? we shall be talking here all night, and yet leave off where we began. But at this moment a diversion was afforded by that inimitable Cateco, who addressing us in an insolent kind of way said, —

" And have you nothing else to offer us ? "

This was too much for our patience, so we answered, —

" Yes ; we have a stick " . . . . seizing a good stout one, ready at hand.

The action, which was perfectly unmistakable, broke up the meeting, the false guide and the three doughty warriors incontinently taking to their heels.

Giving at once orders to march, we plunged into the vast campaign country to the north, the echoes for some time repeating the tumming of the drums ; these, how- ever, grew fainter as we advanced, and at length were lost altogether to the ear.

78 West and Central Africa.

A couple of miles further on brought us to some plan- tations of manioc, pepper, pumpkins, and other products, and we shortly after descried a couple of senzalas in the woods.

Although furnished with the ordinary utensils and articles of savage life, they were totally deserted of in- habitants. By the ashes of the fires that were still warm and the general disorder perceptible about the huts it was evident that their inmates had recently taken to flight. This is no uncommon thing in the interior of Africa, where the first beating of the war-drum will fre- quently cause a senzala to be abandoned.

That cunning Oapulca, having satisfied himself that there really was nobody about, plucked up courage to make a recognisance and returned with a staff and a dozen maniocs that he had looted. His example was soon followed by others ; one appropriated a very good skin ; another picked up a pan ; a third, some other article ; and we ourselves secured a little fetish, quieting our conscience for the theft under the pretext that it was done in the interest of science and for the gratification of European curiosity. Lighting our pipes at a smouldering fire we quitted the spot and resumed our way.

Still keeping a northerly course, by an open track, we fell in with another deserted hamlet, through which we marched in triumph, and two miles further on, descending an abrupt slope, we came, at half-past eleven, upon a lovely lake surrounded by high ground, the name of which, as we subsequently learned, was the Tiber.

Its banks, cut into a variety of fantastic creeks and mimic bays, thickly clothed with verdure, offered a most enchanting prospect, the contemplation of which soon banished from our minds the annoyances of the early

Lake Tiber.

79

morning; for having now become habituated to the life of the woods we could give ourselves up to the enjoyment of any novelty that came in our way with the same light- headedness as any of the natives — our companions.

The water, whose limpidity left that of its namesake in old Rome far in the shade, faithfully reflected the image of the steep and richly varied banks and the azure vault

LAKE TIBER.

above ; not a sound disturbed the holy stillness : not a ruffle broke the mirror-like surface of the lovely basin ; and we might have fancied ourselves suddenly trans- ported by some kindly genius to this enchanting spot as if to show us of what Nature was capable in her happy moods in the interior of savage Africa.

The magic of such a scene was susceptible, we thought,

8o West and Central Afi

nca.

of being heightened if contemplated under the most favourable material circumstances, that is to say, under the influence of a hearty breakfast ; so rousing Capulca from his pleasant occupation of munching one of his stolen maniocs, we gave orders for the preparation of the meal.

Making for the nearest tree, and arranging close to it three large stones (our invariable camp fireplace), our chef divested himself of his cap, boots, and pipe ; and kneeling down to attend to the fire, his cook's knife in its sheath stuck out behind him, he bore so extra- ordinary a resemblance to a baboon with a stiff tail, that we could not refrain from laughter at the sight !

Pending the preparation of the meal, we set ourselves to gather small shells in order to enlarge the concho- logical acquirements of the naturalists, and when break- fast was ready Ave eagerly attacked the invariable fowl. It was an old acquaintance, or at least must have been very near of kin to many hundreds of equally lanky, stringy creatures upon which it had been our fate to banquet for many a long month. While carefully picking its bones, we discussed — as we had often done before — ■ the tooth-resisting power of this species of biped in Africa, and when the herculean task was over, we lay back on the grass, our heads supported in our hands, disposed for a comfortable siesta.

It did not last long; nothing pleasant in this world ever does; for while watching amused, with half-closed eyes, the young niggers licking the plates as they gathered them up, and swallowing any scraps (they must have been very few) we had inadvertently let fall, we saw a sudden movement of alarm among them, and with the warning cry of " The Ma-hungo ! our ears, we sprang to our feet.

Pursued.

81

The cry liad roused the whole caravan, the men seizing their guns. On looking round we were con- vinced of the presence of the enemy, for they clustered on the neighbouring hills and showed their heads above the grass, all apparently armed with guns and assagais.

" They are back again," was the universal exclamation, " and we shan't get by ; they mean to rob us ! "

""Well; if they try, we must defend ourselves," was our response.

And giving orders to march, we filed along the edge of the broken ground, in the midst of a roar of voices from the savages, which the echoes repeated in the strangest sounds.

It was a frightfully trying march up that mountain side, under a burning sun, our only track the irregular furrows made by the waters, every where strewn with sharp, flinty stones. On reaching the summit we discovered at the base the upturned faces and shining bodies of our pursuers.

The women of our caravan were in terrible trouble, for what with heavy loads upon their heads and their infants at their backs they could with difficulty get along, and we deemed it prudent to bring up the rear to pre- vent the laggards being seized and carried off by the natives.

The mountain was succeeded by a plateau, in crossing which we came upon the important track called the Holo,

VOL. II. g

THE HOLO TYPE.

82 West and Central Africa.

that runs westward to Ambriz, passing through Dembo Naboangongo. We at once struck into it, followed closely by the horde of barbarians, who pursued us with cries and threats, stopping when we stopped, and moving on when we moved. This convinced us of the inefficacy of any attempt at negotiation.

At times they would conceal themselves, and the joy of our crew was great. It was always, however, short- lived, for heads would pop up again in the most unexpected places, as if the wretches had burrowed through the earth like moles.

Four anxious hours were spent in this manner, hours that seemed weeks in length, and we were uncertain as at the outset, about what we had better do : for we stood unsupported, in a savage, desert country, with compara- tively few resources, and surrounded by a hostile people. At this moment a murmur, as of some important discovery, came from the vanguard, and we ourselves observed, as we commenced the descent of the high ground, that we were in the neighbourhood of a senzala. We at once decided upon camping there; and on reaching a convenient spot the loads were willingly lowered and piled, and the men set to work to procure materials for the huts. On seeing this, the Ma-hungo closed up on all sides and completely surrounded us.

Suddenly there issued from the senzala an old noble, recognizable by his cajinga, who came towards us. As he approached, we were so little prepossessed by his general appearance, his enormous mouth, hanging lips, wrinkled skin, flattened nose and blear eyes, that we could not help muttering, "Another thief! "

Little wotting of the unfavourable effect he had produced upon us, he addressed us with the words, —

" I am the chief of this senzala. Who are you ? Whence

Trial of the Cause. 8

j

do you come ? And who are these people surrounding you ? "

At first we hesitated about making him our confidant, but on second thoughts, seeing the not too favourable eye he cast npon the Ma-hungo, we thought it better to give him some explanation. Upon our hint, therefore, the mu- zumbo furnished him with a brief narrative of the events of the day, the persecution to which we had been forced to submit, and the absurd pretensions of the Ma-hungo, who claimed twenty pieces of cloth in payment of an offence that was either imaginary or that we had never committed.

" Fear nothing," said the ngly old chief, after listening to this story : "I will decide everything."

And in a rage, real or pretended, turning to onr pursuers, he began to rate them soundly, interspersing his discourse with such gentle epithets as " thieves, rogues, and villains," so that our hearts, as well as those of the whole caravan, were gladdened within us at this evident leaning to our side. Before this untoward affair, how- ever, was terminated, we were forced to alter our opinion, and to confess that the hoary old Jinga was a more cunning rogue than all the rest put together, as he was sharp enough to swindle both parties alike.

Deeming that at his advanced age a vertical position could not be particularly comfortable, we found him a small bench to sit down on, and when he had taken his place beside ourselves, our people and the Ma-hungo gathered round and the Court was complete.

The interpreter Jose, on our behalf, opened the case, and bitterly complained of the annoyances to which we had been subjected ; and when he had done our adver- saries, by their mouth-piece, made answer. This was followed by reply and rejoinder, till one would have

g 2

84

West and Central Aft

mca.

thought the gates of some lunatic asylum had been suddenly opened and the inmates had broken loose. The old judge listened, but appeared to be in no sort

THE COURT WAS COMPLETE.

of hurry to pass sentence, meanwhile night was approach- ing, and he knew the natives would not stop there after dark. This evidently was his policy ; he wanted to gain

Judgment. 85

time, so as to force them to modify their claims. As the sun Beared the horizon their demands were already reduced to fifteen pieces ; as it was setting they dropped down to twelve ; and when its last rays disappeared they had fallen to ten.

" Ten be it," we exclaimed : admitting to ourselves that the good man had done us this much service in reducing the claim of these wretches to one-half.

A bale having been opened, and the ten pieces counted out, the natives took possession, and at once marched off, to our intense satisfaction. Imagine, however, our astonishment and disgust when, on the retirement of the band of thieves, the arch-thief, our African Daniel, holding out his hand, said, in a snuffling tone, —

" Bin-delle, now hand over the other ten pieces to me ! "

And we had to do it, iniquitous as we considered the arrangement ; and thus were brought to a close an absurd adventure and a singular trial, the first in the country in which we flattered ourselves we should obtain justice.

So disgusted were we with the events of the last few hours that we had almost made up our minds to resume our march at night, but this idea was abandoned as soon as formed, for not only was the darkness at our place of encampment complete, but before us, at some four to six miles distance, the northern horizon in an arc of 100° suddenly wore the appearance of an ocean of fire.

The flames lent to the hills and mountains on that side a weird appearance, fitted to daunt the boldest heart; and very shortly afterwards, while regarding the fearful spectacle, flames broke out to the south, the work, doubtless, of our recent adversaries, who, on retiring, had amiably fired the woods to interpose a barrier to our further progress ! We stood, in fact, in a perfect circle of fire, and never did we pass a more anxious night !

86 West and Central Africa.

How truly did we not then recognize the truth of Stan- ley's descriptions ! How vast is the difference between the inhabitants of the middle basin of the Congo, into which Europeans rarely penetrate, and the comparatively gentle peoples of the south — the Quiocos, the Ganguellas, and the Songos ! How much savagery and ill-faith are centred in these monsters, for they are men only in form ! And the more we reflected upon the subject, the more serious it presented itself to our minds, for was it likely that matters would improve as we went on ? From what side were we likely to find protection, when every- thing that bore a human shape was our enemy, whose sole aim was to bring about our ruin ?

A delicious morning dissipated many of the gloomy reflections born of night and of the horrors that sur- rounded us. On starting, we plunged into the woods, the few natives that appeared fleeing in terror at our approach, and shortly afterwards, descending a steep incline, found ourselves at the bottom of the valley. There the gigantic fig-trees, m'pafu (Elemi) and immense palms, connected by a network of the spiral stems of the Calamus florus, and other creepers, formed an almost impenetrable jungle, inhabited by troops of monkeys of revolting aspect, among which we recognized the Cyno- cephalus porcarius.

A river with marshy banks then completely inter- cepted our path, and as there was not the ghost of a bridge, we were compelled to wade across with the water up to our waists.

Continuing our way over hill and dale, keeping a steady northerly course, at one time through a marsh, at another by a piece of woodland, we came, by chance, at four o'clock in the afternoon, when we were despairing of such good Inch, upon a little village named Mucole

Dense J tingle. Sy

Quipanzo, where we were at once the victims of a swindle ; for having engaged a guide there and given him six yards of cloth for his services, the fellow decamped, and we had to go on without him.

The ground was so frightfully rough and broken that, unable to continue longer in a northerly direction, we diverged to the eastward, a course that we pursued for a couple of days, one of us suffering from fever, the other from rheumatism. The path was encumbered with a profuse growth, called by the natives mu-chito, a perfect dedalus, for which the Hungo is celebrated. We had literally to cut our way with the hatchet and the sickle, and whole hours were passed with immense labour to open up a mile of road.

Many a day was spent during this journey in the midst of such labyrinths, where the foot of man had probably never before trodden, which the native carefully avoids, and whose only inmates are monkeys and baboons or some frightful reptiles, which find a home in the hollow trunk of an ancient tree or about the network of roots that are as much above the ground as under.

These are true thorns in the sides of an explorer, and when he meets them he is bound to put out all his energy, so that he may, by his example, prevent the demoralization of those who follow him. For as they struggle through pestilential bogs or almost impenetrable woods, stumbling here, sinking there, laying down their loads to take up their hatchets, they would infallibly drop beneath their fatigues and deprivations were they not encouraged by the words and activity of their leaders, to whom they look up, so to speak, for inspiration.

In the midst of all our worries, labour, sickness, and torment, a gleam of pleasure was at length afforded us, not, it is true, unmixed and unalloyed, but that still, to a

88 West and Cenfral Africa.

certain extent, compensated ns for much of the suffering of the last few days.

On the 23rd of May, while descending an easy slope, we observed at the foot, and extending for a considerable distance over the lower ground, a thick growth of reeds and osiers that hinted at the presence of a large river. Our conjecture was a true one, and when we reached the bottom we found a vast stream of water which the in- habitants of a neighbouring senzala informed us was called the Cu-gho, an affluent of the Ouango, which we at once marked down upon our map, and to which, a little later on, we were enabled to assign a length of 100 miles.

It springs, according to our informants, in the north- west, amid the territory of Macume-N'jimbo, in a spacious lake, and along it lies a track which, via Quizau Malunga, connects the interior with the coast.

In front of us, on the north-north-west, extended the district of Quicongo, rugged, mountainous, full of lakes, lying at the bottom of deep valleys ; on the west-north- west lay the lands of Quiteca N'bungo ; and to the north of the latter appeared the territory of Futa, where nestled the Ba-congo tribes.

How savage was the aspect of the whole scene ! Accus- tomed as we were by this time to the interior of Africa, it somehow seemed to us that this region was unlike any- thing we had yet beheld in it. The soil, the air, the inhabi- tants, all seemed different. The vegetation, mainly, imprints upon it a distinct character. Palms predominate. There are, for instance, the Elais, the Hyphosne, the Boras- sus, a species of Chamoerops (the fan-palm), the leafy Raphias, whence is extracted the Maluvo, of which we shall have more to say. Species of hemps begin to appear in families which are generally herbaceous near the tropics,

Native Watermen. 89

Malvaceas, more especially, among which figure the Adansonia and Eriodendron an/.; and even various Rubia- ceas, show symptoms of this transformation.

We found in this district numerous species of Nympha- ceas, together with Euphorbiaceas and Acantaceas ; pre- cisely the contrary to the Fugeras and Orchideas epidendres, which, rare throughout the continent, almost disappear in these latitudes.

The gigantic Burseraceas, producing the Elemi balsam, to which we have already alluded, under the names of rripafn or m'bafu, are quite common. Down their enor- mous trunks runs the white resin which, evaporating in part, forms drops that stand out like the gutterings of huge wax tapers. In close proximity to the former are the colossal Landolphias, whence is obtained the india- rubber, a gum that is very abundant in the Hungo.

We rested on the 23rd of May near the libata Cambamba, and started off again on the 24th for Man- gongo, with a view to crossing the river. This operation, that constitutes one of the most difficult problems in Africa, when the traveller has to employ the native boats, was very nearly in our case bringing about a serious conflict.

At the outset the natives hid their canoes ; then they would accept none of our offers ; a little later they averred we should not cross the river at all, and only yielded at last under reiterated persuasion. And we had to bear all this when we were consumed with fever !

The passage at length began ; but when they had carried half our party over and had thus divided the expedition, they struck, and would do no more work !

" What is the matter ? " we inquired.

"We don't intend to take over any more."

" For what reason ? "

90

West and Central Afr

rica

" Because four pieces are too little."

" But a bargain's a bargain. You agreed to the terms, which are your own."

" You must give us two more pieces, otherwise you may stop where you are."

In a moment of nervous excitement we seized our gun and raised it to our shoulder with a view to fire at the

THE CU-GHO WATERMEN.

impudent swindlers. But our better judgment prevailed and prevented an act which might have been attended with very serious consequences.

We therefore had recourse to diplomacy ; spoke them mildly, while we were boiling over with rage ; and after a promise of increased pay, and three mortal hours passed in discussion and persuasion, got over safely to the

A doubtful Halting-place. 9 1

other side, missing, however, at the last moment, when the fellows were all gone, a she-goat that had formed part of the last boat-load.

Late as it was — four o'clock in the afternoon — and sick, worn ont, and trembling with pain and excitement, we were bound to go further on in search of a convenient place to pitch our camp ; which, after marching in a north-north-west direction, we thought we found in the midst of a thicket, and worked till nightfall at our huts.

Judging from the musty smell that soon saluted our nostrils, we must have selected — if not the actual lairs — the immediate neighbourhood of the haunts of wild beasts ; but we were so thoroughly done up that at that moment we cared but little where we lay our heads, so that we obtained rest. This blessed resource was happily not denied us ; and thus at the extreme limit of the Hungo we slept profoundly.

CYNOCEPHALUS FOKCARIUS.

92 West and Central Africa.

CHAPTER V.

We leave the Cu-gho — Gloomy presentiments — The mu-chitos and the desert — An evening of tribulations and a devouring thirst — TryiDg times of a life in the interior — A Providential interposition — More mu-chitos and fresh labour — Caught in the wood — Nervous state of the explorers — All but lost — Scouts sent out in search of succour — Two lines from the diary — A terrible night— Return of Jose and brief narrative of his adventures — Two solitary hunters — Fresh hopes — Again astray — An apparition of palancas — Night again — Final decision.

With our proximity to Yacca commenced the most trying portion of our whole journey. So long as we remained on the Cu-gho we remarked, and the guide confirmed our observation, that the natives appeared more and more anxious about the road we intended to pursue, whisper- ing among themselves that in such-or-such a direction not a living soul was to be found, and that the only known track, that of Cha-Massango, lay along the river's course. We had, however, got so accustomed to the assertion that certain territory was a desert while we found it everywhere peopled, that we paid little heed to their apprehensions, and resolved to continue on.

On the 25th of May, therefore, having risen in the dark and whilst the woods were still echoing with the mourn - ful cries of the monkeys and the more painful ones of the jackals, we were seated by the fire waiting for day, which an inexplicable presentiment seemed to tell us would be one of trial. The blessed light of morning soon

Trying Moments. 93

appeared, and brought with it the energy which naturally conies to the man whose mind is prepared for a great struggle.

" Wake up ! Wake up ! " was the cry, and the men unrolled themselves from their mats and busied them- selves with preparations for departure.

No one said a word ; we ourselves, as glum as our followers, waited till all was ready, and the silence that had fallen upon the entire camp was in singular contrast to the hilarity and chatter which usually attended our setting out.

Our first care was to discover a path, and as our guide after a little search found a goat track, we struck into it and filed off in a north-easterly direction.

For the first hour we picked our way amid the crags which formed the steep bank on the left side of the Cu- gho, stopping occasionally to listen for the slightest sound that indicated the existence of humanity. Not a murmur, however, met our ear, and not a vestige of a living thing caught the eye as we descended the bare declivity, plunged amid some ragged palms, and reached at the bottom a deep ravine, almost concealed by the abundant vegetation, where every vestige of a path had disappeared.

Face to face with this new obstacle, we groped about till we found an opening into which, stooping our heads, it was so low, we unhesitatingly dived. The hard sand- stone was here succeeded by a spongy soil, that soon became a slough covered with leaves, osiers, and sprays of the Metroxilon, through which water was perceptible. We were evidently in the channel of a little river.

In lieu of the radiant light of the sun we had a semi- darkness which scarcely enabled us to pick our way, and the light boughs of wavy trees were replaced by

94 West and Central Africa.

giant trunks with overhanging branches scarcely less gigantic.

The forest, ever increasing in density, became at last all but impenetrable, so that we had to make a dozen trials ere we could force a passage. At half -past nine, all but disheartened, and yet apprehensive of stopping where we were, we came to a halt and sent scouts out in different directions, with orders to communicate their position by shouts and cries. The reports of several guns from the north made us start in that direction, and after tracking our way through the underwood we got out of the maze and reached our companions.

It was then ten o'clock. The sun, that was high in the heavens, darted his full beams upon the neighbouring plain, covered with a new kind of low and yellow grass, which we got through without much difficulty ; but before three quarters of an hour had elapsed we found ourselves engulfed in another thicket of colossal mu- chito, which covered for some few leagues the entire basin of a broad river called the Ouviji.

It is difficult to conceive the dangers that beset a traveller in these . woods. The black and shifting soil, formed by the accumulations of centuries of debris of the vegetable world, the humidity below retained by the imperviousness of the subjacent bed of clay, the tepid vapours of the soil rising like a thick cloud between the tree-trunks, the water dropping from the upper leaves, the suffocating heat, the sudden chill, the overpowering smell of decayed vegetation, mingled with the pungent odours of other living plants, constitute a sum of elements that the pen attempts in vain to describe.

Pushing on through this wonderfully beautiful but still fearful forest, with many a hard struggle by the way, the caravan, as before, came at length to the end,

A frigh tfu I Position . 9 5

and emerged into the open. The prospect before ns was a rugged bit of country, exhibiting various bare, circular mounts and deep, green valleys, of which our past experience made us doubtful, but not the slightest indi- cation of a track to show that it had been traversed by man.

We stood, in fact, in a perfect desert, and a very short halt under the burning sun produced a thirst which it was difficult to satisfy. The men sought for water every- where, but not the smallest brooklet was discoverable in dale or valley.

At 4.30 p.m. we found ourselves on the summit of a lofty mount, dropping with fatigue, burnt by the sun, and fainting with thirst. A magnificent panorama of hills and conical rocks, disconnected and without order, was presented to our view, and as we regarded it, our hearts sank within us, for we readily comprehended that as there were no river-beds, the water which fell from the clouds and formed little lakes in the hollows became speedily dried up. Nevertheless, we despatched half a score of men in different directions to search once more for the precious liquid, but they returned one after the other without success.

The position was a most critical one, for evening would soon be upon us, and yet, what was to be done ? Anyway, remaining there was useless ; so putting our trust in Providence we resumed our wearisome journey, our- selves taking the lead by way of setting an example to our half-demoralized caravan.

But as we trudged along, uncomfortable ideas rose up in our minds, and found expression in the half-muttered words, What if the reports of the dwellers by the Cu-gho should be correct, and the territory on which we are entering be indeed a desert, devoid of water, bare of

96 West and Central Africa.

people, with no resources to support animal life, and the further penetration into which will involve destruction, by starvation and thirst !

Shaking off with difficulty these gloomy reflections, and clinging to the hope engendered of former experience, we kept sturdily on our way. As ill-luck would have it, two of the carriers, overcome with fatigue and thirst, set down their loads after we had got over a couple of miles, and declared they could go no further, so we had to carry the guns of our immediate attendants, and make them assist in conveying the goods.

It was then half-past five in the afternoon, and our anxiety had reached its culminating-point. In front, some of the strongest and boldest of our party eagerly pressed on, in the hope of being the first to slake their burning thirst, but it was labour in vain, mountain, plain, and valley alike showed by their sterility 'that no water was there.

The sun was already hidden behind a bank of cloud, a mantle, as it were, waiting to enwrap the god of day as he sank towards the western horizon, and his disap- pearance lent a most melancholy aspect to the arid district. Day was about to close, and heaven only knew what was to become of us after thirty hours' thirst ! Most assuredly, by the following morning, not one among our men would be capable of taking a step under a load weighing seventy pounds.

But that was not the worst ; our discomfort was deep enough, but a lower depth was looming in the distance. Without water, how were we to cook our infundi ? And how, therefore, should we manage if we suffered from hunger and thirst combined ?

In the depressed condition of our minds, what wonder if we should ask ourselves whether the barbarians of

Losing Heart.

97

Central Africa were worthy of the sacrifices we and others made on their behalf ? when all our labour, care, anxieties and suffering were to be met by ingratitude !

But we had brief space for these or any reflections. The lads of the party who had borne up so bravely began to give way, and first one and then another slipped to the ground with his burthen, and cried, " We can do no

SLOWLY DESCENDING FROM A HEIGHT.

more. Let us go back, senhors, let us go back. There was water on the road we came from, there is nothing ahead of us but rocks and stones."

We spoke to them kindly and encouragingly , though our words scarce found an echo in our own hearts. We urged them to take a little rest and then try again ; assured them that their fatigue and trouble would soon

VOL. IT. H

98 West and Central Africa.

end, and that water and food would shortly be at their disposal. And as we uttered the promise, the report of a gun and then another from the front broke upon our ear, and was repeated from the rocks around, as if a dozen muskets had been fired. A frenzied excitement at the signal succeeded the depression that was akin to despair. Hoarse cries came from the cracking lips which a moment before seemed incapable of proffering a word. Arms, baggage, everything that encumbered the motion of the limbs, were for the time abandoned, and the long file of carriers just then slowly descending from a height appeared to be animated with a feverish life, and rushed downwards eager to see the origin of the preconcerted signal.

Before us ran a vast river which one of the lads, Fortuna, happily named, had just before discovered. Like madmen we dashed into the stream, buried our faces in the limpid water, drank it as a dog might do, little reflecting, and for the moment little caring that everything we then possessed of means was strown upon the rugged way !

When we had come to our senses we began to think of our encampment, and while part of the men in far different spirits returned to the place where they had left the baggage which they gradually collected, others filled their calabashes with water and made preparations for the evening meal. They were all, however, much too tired to construct the usual huts, so we determined to take our rest in the open. Never was rest more needed ; and under the brilliant stars which twinkled in the vast canopy of heaven we composed ourselves to sleep.

By midnight the south-east wind that had been blow- ing, moderated, and the moon, as she rose, looked down

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THE MU-CHITO.

Page 99.

Impenetrable Jungle. 99

peacefully upon our handful of men, lying in easy atti- tudes about the smouldering camp fires, in happy forgetfulness of the trying adventures of the day. Ere we dropped off, we heard, mingled with the rush of the Fortuna between its dark green banks, other strange sounds due to the various quadrumen, as they chased each other amid the boughs of the trees, or to the night-birds shrieking as they flew by.

On the 26th, at daybreak, well provided with water, having despatched what remained of some dried meat, we started along the high ground in an easterly direc- tion, in search this time of food, for we felt convinced that along the river we should fall upon the Cuango (of which we conceived the Fortuna was an affluent) and the human habitations we sought. Unfortunately, we were perfectly wrong in our conjectures, and at about four miles from our starting-place, we discovered, im- mediately beneath our feet, a ravine, into which we descended.

But on reaching the bottom we found a dense thicket of trees and our old enemy, the mu-chito, where we lost ourselves for a couple of hours. On emerging from it between the river and a lofty bank on the south side, we kept along the ridge till we met with another thick wood, where we soon found that we were completely surrounded by water and plants.

The caravan floundered about the high and stubborn grass in search of some opening whereby they might issue from the trap — but for a long time unsuccessfully. At length, fancying we saw a sort of track through the dense vegetation, we followed it, but to our dismay soon observed, by unmistakable signs, that it was a path made by hippopotami, and all our care had to be devoted to the task of not running against the monsters.

h 2

IOO

West and Central Africa.

As we stayed our steps for awhile, the silence was profound. The river, choked with rushes and canes, seemed to run in every direction, or to divide itself into numerous branches, and while one of them appeared to flow eastward, another decidedly ran towards the north. Making our way to the margin, we found matters even worse ; the treacherous soil gave way beneath our weight and we sank up to our knees, so that we were obliged to lend a hand to help the vanguard out.

Dead-tired and depressed in spirits, we felt ready to succumb beneath the weight of such gigantic difficulties, unknowing what to do or what to advise, and our spirits were not raised by the questions we overheard our com- panions put to each other.

" Where is it we are going to ? How shall we ever get through this desert country — without food — without a path — where wild beasts may meet us at every turn? "

How indeed ! we began to ask ourselves ; and is it not a species of insanity to go further ? The only other course open is to turn back, but then, what becomes of our labour and our mission ?

Torn by these conflicting emotions — the feeling of the quasi-impossibility of advancing pulling us in one direc- tion, while our duty and our pride were urging us in another — we still went on till we were ready to drop.

The life of the woods, which is generally miserable enough, becomes aggravated in all its worst features as the traveller plunges deeper into this great continent. The huge obstacles and constant privations not merely weaken and wear out his body, but at the end of some months' marching they produce a state of irritability, and nervous excitement closely allied to derangement. An extraordinary change in individual character soon be- comes apparent. The extravagance of gesture, precipi-

Over sir a ined Nerves . i o i

tation in every act, abruptness in issuing orders, baseless fears, and a desire to rush along the road, as though pursued by some phantom, all are evidence of the change that is being wrought, and are symptoms of the malady known here as African spleen.

The ideas which at such times rise up in the mind are, as a matter of course, closely connected with the objects of the explorer. A plan that he may have conceived becomes a pivot upon which turn all the labours of the brain ; by day, during whole hours of abstraction, he figures to himself endless streams, colossal lakes, new tracks, and strange habitations ; by night his dreams are still of Africa, but mingled with them, the extravagances and monstrosities proper to a state of semi-conscious- ness.

How often when in that half-sleeping, half-waking condition have we not beheld the Cuango, coursing through a vast plain, and finally debouching into the Congo-Zaire ! How often have we not dwelt on the awful beauty of that region, and wandered through the vast basin of the immense river, noting the huge plain, here covered by many feet of water, there clothed with a dense vegetation exhaling miasma and death under a blinding, scorching sun ! We could even trace the course of the numerous rivers that flowed into the all- absorbing stream ; the Cuango, the Lu-angue, the Cas- sai, the Moaza-N'gombe, converging to one receptacle, where their waters intermingled ! In that same half- dreamy state we found ourselves gathering information from native sources, passing through scenes of the most extravagant character, yet bearing an impress of such vivid reality, that when we were broad awake, we tried, but tried in vain to dismiss them from our mind. The map of Africa was stereotyped upon our brain, and not

102 West and Central Africa.

even the pitchy darkness of our hut could shut it from our view !

Did these strange vagaries, these fixed prepossessions portend the dawn of madness ? Was the brain yielding to the pressure put upon it, while the body was weakened by fever, privations, and fatigues ? It was a fearful fear, and as, from this lapse of time, we look back upon those terrible days and try to realize all the dread apprehensions that we then suffered, a feeling of infinite pity and compassion for the suffering mortals comes over us, as though for men who were other than ourselves !

Amid the straits to which we were now reduced, there was one great and overpowering necessity which demanded instant attention, that of procuring food ; so abandoning the margin of the river, we cut a path with the hatchet through the forest which clothed the moun- tain side, in order to reach the summit and obtain a view of the surrounding country, and when we did so we saw the folly of our recent struggles, and obtained an explanation of the imaginary branches of the river we had been pursuing. The forest extended as far as the eye could reach, and iu the open ground we distinctly observed two rivers, one to the north, the other to the south of the mountain, and whose waters met at some distance beyond its foot; the smaller one, the Fortuna, our recent discovery, which flowed into the Cu-gho ; and the point where we stood, was the massango, or confluence of the streams.

With the knowledge thus acquired, there remained no doubt upon our minds that we must retrace our steps, as a forward motion was simply impossible. As we continued our observations, we remarked in the far dis- tance, eastward, what we took to be smoke, but no sign of a human dwelling. The country was utterly deserted,

Sending out Scoiits. 103

and our stomachs, in consequence of the disappoint- ment, began to protest energetically against the neglect to which they were subjected.

It was then three o'clock in the afternoon, so calling a council we resolved upon a plan which we proceeded forthwith to put into execution. Fortuna, the lucky (for we had reached a stage when such superstitious trifles were not ignored), accompanied by a couple of com- panions, was ordered to proceed in an easterly direction, and he was furnished with a gun wherewith to signal in case of a discovery and defend himself and party against attack. Somma, an intelligent and active mu-sumbi, with three or four more, was instructed to make his way to the south in search of game or any- thing else in the shape of food, while Jose, the guide, was desired to go northwards, to see if he could meet with the habitations of man. We ourselves were meanwhile to keep watch and ward with the reserves over our goods, and wait for tidings from the scouts.

When they had departed we set to work to construct an encampment and scour the neighbourhood in search of edible roots. As the quest was perfectly unsuccess- ful, we were fain to content ourselves with cold water, and such scraps of flour as we could gather from the sack after it was turned inside out like a glove. Then we entered in our diary the laconic phrases which we literally transcribe : —

Portuguese-African Expedition. May 26th, 1879. Page 542.

Aneroid 2349 ft. Temperature 84° Fahr.

An awful day. Camped on a mount near the confluence of the Cu-gho and Fortuna, completely cleared out of provisions. "Very down and glumpy. Country deserted. Not a soul yet met with. Hungry, feverish, and sick. Horary for longitude :

O at 2h = 53, 31. H = l\ 50m. 28s. 30*. Azith. = 369,9. Q mer. = 67,97. What next ? We must wait.

104 West and Central Africa.

It was the only thing to do, so we did it with resig- nation while counting the minutes and listening to catch the slightest sound. But in the immense solitude there reigned a sepulchral silence which we ourselves scarcely ventured to break.

Meanwhile the sun ran his imperturbable course; passed through the stages from brilliant yellow to deep orange, and nearing the horizon irradiated the patches of cloud which floated beneath the azure vault of heaven, shot a few grand rays through a rent in the dense vapour, and then, in disappearing, carried with him our last lingering hopes !

" Nothing, " we murmured sadly to each other ; " other- wise they would have returned."

Night fell, and brought with it increased depression. Extensive fires in the east and the moon which then rose seemed to augment the solemnity of the prospect.

Hours passed over when we were aroused by the report of a gun ; it was Somma with his party ; and shortly after another report warned us of the arrival of Fortuna. They brought us, unluckily, no comfort ; they had found no cultivation, no track, not a vestige of a human thing. The forest, they said, was all around us, but they had sought in vain for a path which could hint of its ever being traversed.

In Jose, now, lay the sole hope that was left us, and our readers may believe that we did so with intense anxiety. His route had been northwards, and in that direction we looked and watched.

As early as four in the morning we were on the look- out ; we had tried to sleep, but in vain ; we had been listening the night through. The morning breeze as it fanned our fevered temples was an immense relief ; but we were faint and sick for want of sustenance.

The sun reappeared and lit up all the landscape ; but

A slight Diversion. 105

to us it brought little relief, as we regarded the worn and haggard looks of our companions in misfortune. As for ourselves, wrapped in our great-coats, seated on the ground and our backs supported by the open trunks, we wound up our chronometers and recorded the readings of the thermometers, and having thus performed our duty towards science, restored the instruments to their places and once more gazed out upon the country.

There was nothing new in it; there was no change from the day before; the same valleys and the same woodland met our eyes, and the same silence reigned over all.

As time sped on, it became urgent upon us we knew to take some resolution, to make some effort unless we intended to wait, with arms folded, for the approach of death by starvation. But what was that resolution, what that effort to be ? To return ? we were far from any inhabited place ; by the road we had come it would take us two long days, and how were they to be got through, fasting, while we had already fasted so long ? To go forward ? whither ? amid the frightful obstacles we beheld from our point of observation ? And Jose ? could we, ought we to abandon him ? A thousand times, no ! Remain we must, and to remain we resolved ; further determining to use our efforts to draw fish from the river and to scour the woods in search of game.

The idea was no sooner uttered than it was seized upon with avidity, and once again did the encampment display a semblance of motion. Anything that could serve for a net was hastily rummaged out ; lead was cut into little pieces to make small shot for birds ; some of the hands set to work to manufacture snares, and parties were in the very act of setting out for the river, when from the forest, in a north-west direction, the

io6

West and Central Africa.

report of a couple of guns turned us for the moment into statues !

"It is Jose ! " was the universal cry.

And as we looked we saw Jose and his companions emerge from the wood, with a firm and elastic step which was in strong contrast with our own weakness,

JOSE AND HIS COMPANIONS EMERGED FROM THE WOOD.

bearing upon their heads what we felt was to restore us to new life !

It is impossible to describe the wild joy which took possession of our whole band at the sight. As the men rushed towards the new arrivals, eager to relieve them of their load, they cried, —

" Is it food you are bringing us ? "

Return of Jose. 107

And Jose raised aloft a string of bagres from the river, drew from his belt a root of manioc which he flourished in the air, and pointed to the packages carried by his attendants, in eloquent but silent answer to the eager queries.

Jose's expedition, as subsequently related to us, may be summed up in few words.

When he and his party left us the evening before, he made his way through the neighbouring woods, and coming out upon the river, considerably higher up than we had met it, they found to their satisfaction that they could ford it, which they at once proceeded to do. Having reached the other side, they observed what appeared to be a goat-track, into which they at once struck, and marching along it, uninterruptedly, they came, to the surprise of the guide, upon a solitary hut, all but buried in the high grass. On entering they found .themselves in presence of a couple of hunters, who had taken up their residence in that spot in order to pursue their avocation. The men were intelligent and friendly, and Jose had no difficulty in bartering a piece of cloth and a bag of beads for some thirty bagres, a parcel of manioc roots, about eight pounds of flour, and a couple of bindas of maluvo ; he, moreover, drew from them a pro- mise to act as our guides upon the road. He would have returned that very night, but learning that the forest was not particularly safe during the hours of dark- ness, owing to the wild beasts by which it was infested, he discreetly waited till the next morning before making the return journey.

Whilst our worthy guide was doling out his news, we were in like manner distributing the provisions he had brought, and though the banquet was not a luxurious one, still manioc root and dried fish to a man who has been

1 08 West mid Central Af7'ica.

next door to starvation are not by any means to be despised. Heartily thanking Jose for his good service, which we promised duly to reward on reaching the coast, we resolved to lose no time in pursuing the path he had discovered ; and so soon as the wants of nature were satisfied, we got ourselves into marching order and broke up our camp.

Our course was north-westerly, and following in the footsteps of the guide, we arrived, after about an hour's march, at the point where the Fortuna was fordable, and which river, as Jose informed us, was called by the natives Unguiji, and came from a far distance and had its rise in a lake.

On reaching the other side we began climbing in an oblique direction a rugged mount, which made us per- spire at every pore, till the caravan at length sighted the hut spoken of by Jose, and that had been prudently erected beside a running brook. It was then 11.30 a.m. of the 27th May, 1879.

We did not consider it of good augury that, on our arrival at the hut, its two inmates should take to flight and conceal themselves in the wood, but this was what they did on catching the first glimpse of our people, and it required all Jose's powers of persuasion to induce them to return. When they did so we endeavoured to persuade them to guide us to some inhabited spot, on the bank of the Ouango which, after an infinity of trouble and tempt- ing promises, they agreed to do, and took the lead of the caravan for the purpose.

Unencumbered by any stores of provisions we rapidly skirted the forest and crossing an arid, granite mount, we descended on to the picturesque margin of the river Mapemba, where we halted ten minutes for a rest. On resuming our march we scaled the lofty bank on the oppo-

In fresh Troubles. 109

site side and found on the top a vast plain, destitute of trees, through which wound a sort of track.

Our guides here said they could go no farther, and that we had only to follow the path to find ourselves at the Cuango. Little agreeable as the announcement was to our mind — for recent experience had made us suspicious and doubtful — there was no help for it but to let them go, more particularly as being paid beforehand we had no means of detaining them. On separating, therefore, we pursued our way, but after the lapse of about an hour, all indication of a track having disappeared, we lost our- selves completely in the high grass !

Some of our readers may perhaps argue, —

" But in the centre of a plain, with compass in hand, it surely must be easy to reach any determinate point."

To which we will make answer, that until tried, few can tell how difficult it is to follow a right line where there is no visible point in the distance ; and this was exactly our case, for owing to the high grass and cistus that sur- rounded us, all view was completely shut out.

Groping about, therefore, amid these obstacles, our course was very far from being a straight one ; the sun blazed down upon our heads ; fatigue began to weigh our limbs, and there loomed upon our minds the probability of a renewal of our sufferings from hunger, thirst, and anxiety.

The Cuango lay, to a certainty, in an east-north-east direction, and to that point we endeavoured to steer, so putting in the vanguard three of our stoutest hands, to cut away the grass and weeds that blocked the way, we followed slowly on.

Ill-luck appeared to pursue us upon this terrible journey and with cruel irony placed food, so to speak, within our reach only to snatch it away. As we plodded along, one

1 10 West and Central Africa.

of the carriers reported that he had seen upon the left various dark, moving objects which he took to be palancas.

We at once started in search, working round to leeward of the spot, so as to prevent their getting scent of us. In a few minutes we came in sight of them and could observe their beautiful heads peering between the grass.

THE PALANCAS.

They were large female antelopes, hornless, with long necks, elegant in shape, with very light and lustrous skin, having the appearance at first sight of a herd of wild asses. On our nearer approach, something caused them to take the alarm ; and hesitating for a moment in restless attitude, they darted away with all speed.

We let fly a couple of barrels at the nearest, but missed ; and to our immense annoyance and the surprise and

Renewed Disappointments. 1 1 1

disappointment of the whole caravan, they got off scot- free ! We followed them up for some distance, but we might as well have chased the wind, for not another shot was afforded us ! One of us succeeded in getting a hasty sketch, tolerably approximate to the truth, but that was the only record afforded us of their apparition.

This last misfortune seemed to deprive our crew of what little courage was left them. Ten hours, which appeared as many months in length, had elapsed since we left the banks of the river Fortuna, and still there was no evidence of human habitation. Surely, we thought, one more day of such suffering will decide our fate, and the caravan, already demoralized, must perish of inanition. The very Ban-sumbi, the most robust of our men, were sinking beneath the strain put upon them, and we ex- pected at any moment they would throw down their loads and refuse to carry them further. The young niggers hobbled along, bent like old men ; the women, in most instances overladen with their infants, the perspiration pouring from them as they walked, took every opportu- nity of stopping by the way, more willing to resign them-- selves to their fate, if it brought them rest, than to go on seeking for what they deemed undiscoverable. We our- selves, though carrying no load, did not suffer less than any of our people. A general debility had taken posses- sion of our entire organism, rendering it difficult for us to stand upright, owing to the indescribable pains in the back and loins.

It was mainly in the ascents that these inconveni- ences and troubles were experienced, every hill-side becoming a calvary, upon which we expected to faint and die. Our temples on these occasions beat ]ike sledge- hammers, our eyes were veiled with mist, and the rapid action of the heart produced a feeling as of suffocation.

The sun was rapidly declining ; the heat diminished,

I 12

West and Central Africa.

but in the same proportion our hunger and thirst increased, and yet the further we went, the more dis- tant still appeared our chances of alleviation.

Knowing, however, from cruel experience, the danger of stopping, and determined in our own minds that we would not turn back, we still crawled on, conscious that we must advance till we found water, or drop by the way.

The main body skirted a gentle declivity, while parties were despatched to the right and left to search in every hollow; and we then had another climb. Night was falling as we reached the edge of a steep and bare descent, and discovered about a mile to the westward the windings of a great river. At the foot of the hill on which we stood we observed an extensive valley covered with grass, intersected by irregular lines of darker vegetation that hinted at the passage of several brooklets.

" We will stop here ! " the men exclaimed as with one voice ; nor did we proffer a word in opposition to the general will. Besides that it would have been useless, we felt ourselves that we could no further go. It was then seven in the evening.

3 '1MAIS -t CORACIAS ESPATULATA.

"3

CHAPTER VI.

Opinion of the authors upon laconism in the description of toil and suffering — The night of the 27th May — Apprehensions — Night phantoms — An unexpected discovery — The women of the caravan — A marriage — Famine and plenty next-door neighbours — Having satisfied the body we seek distraction of mind — A wine-party — Quizengamo, an important quilolo, visits the encampment — Two pages from the diary — The guides urge us to repair to the Court of the Quianvo — Our own resolve — The Cuango and capricious sinuosities of its course — Frightful effects of dysentery — Putrid fermentation and the failure of food — A dance of the Ma-yacca — Abandoned in the forest — Fever, ulcers, and dysentery — Flight of the guide — The desert — Fragment of the diary — Baffled — Return u —The Cugho.

To the man who has never had the misfortune to pass entire days of hnnger and thirst, with the temperature at 86° of Fahrenheit ; who has never experienced the dire sensations of intense fever, aggravated by the anguish of dysentery, the terrible itching caused by parasites, and which the flannel vest renders almost unbearable ; to the man again who never felt the excruciating suffering caused by scorbutic wounds in the legs and feet, making the pressure of the boot a martyrdom ; our dwelling to such length upon these subjects may appear perhaps both troublesome and undignified. We consider, however, that such a judgment is not a fair one, inasmuch as no traveller is capable on his return to Europe and in the quiet repose of his own study, to set down faithfully, after the lapse of months, what he suffered in those inhos-

VOL. II. I

ii4 West and Central Africa.

pitablo regions, or give a just measure of the physical and moral tribulations which at the time oppressed his miserable existence. He may retain a faint recollection of them, but hesitating between his diary and his wish to say the exact truth, he is likely to suppress a great deal that we consider it proper to lay before the world for the behoof of future explorers.

Stanley, that active and indefatigable genius, was con- scious of this truth when in the Zinga on the 10th of June, 1877, he wrote :—

" The details of the tortures I suffered cannot be described, but they are indelibly engraved in the depths of a heart which feels all the bitterness of the pains which wrung it."

It must have been a heavy load of suffering that in- duced a man, usually so laconic, to pen those lines ; they owed their origin to countless struggles, to the pangs of hunger and thirst, to consuming fever and the loss of faithful companions ; yet many readers probably passed over that simple paragraph without a second thought. In justice to him and others we intend to be less brief, and in the present chapter to give a faithful record of our vicissitudes and reflections.

It was on the 27th of May that the caravan, whereof we were the chiefs, found itself on the left bank of a cer- tain river, without shelter, pinched by hunger, fall of bodily ailments, seated on a bare mount, in a narrow circle, surrounding a fire as half starved as ourselves.

The thought of the morrow was in the minds of all. Ten times that day had we lost ourselves in our wander- ings, and we knew too well that the continuance of such a course must, in the end, be fatal to some, if not to all. As we scanned the horizon we put the question to ourselves, " How long can this continue ? "

The Night of the 2 yth May. 1 1 5

In the far distance we discovered, aided by the pale light of the moon, certain high land, on the summit of which we perceived fires. Could they be senzalas, or were they the fires of wanderers like ourselves ? none could say ; this, however, was certain, that not a sound came to our ears indicative of human beings. The whole country lay in profound repose, only interrupted in the depth of night by a troop of wolves hovering and howling about us. Other black, shadowy forms, the more fearful from being undefined, were creeping stealthily in the valley below, so that our guns, upon the cock, were kept con- stantly pointed in that direction.

A slow fever was undermining our remaining strength, and a terrible insomnia had taken possession of us both. Our heated imagination passed in review a multitude of scenes, of thoughts, of disjointed ideas, which ebbed and flowed in an uninterrupted stream. On inquiring of each other, we found the experience was mutual, so drawing our coats, which were stiffened by the cold mist of night, closer around us we tried to sleep. A vain endeavour truly ; and at three quarters past four in the morning, we were witnesses, against our will, to day breaking in the east.

So soon as the light permitted, a careful survey was made of the surroundings, the result being, that we were near the bank of the river Cuango, posted on an abrupt mount which bordered it on the western side ; that the stream ran, in a broad sheet, through banks clothed with dark green foliage, forming an edging to the tall wavy grass ; that on the heights beyond the further bank white patches were discernible which by the glass appeared to be human dwellings ; that northwards, the land was broken and uneven to the last degree, and that behind the hills in that direction white smoke was rising into the air.

1 2

1 1 6 # West and Central Africa.

As the watch marked the hour of five, we organized a party to go to the river to procure water, and de- spatched another up the stream to make a reconnois- sance, whilst we ourselves to occupy the time till their return endeavoured to take the bearings of the sur- rounding country.

We had not, however, been long engaged at the work before we saw two of the party rush back again through the grass and make their way up the ascent uttering loud cries. They were mere lads, though one of them, Lianda, was quick-witted and expert, who informed us in a breathless state that they had, immediately after setting out, discovered an immense encampment inhabited by fishermen, where the abundance of good things was such that, to use the young fellow's own expression : " There Were so many calabashes of maluvo that all of us put together would not be so many."

The effect of this announcement may readily be con- ceived, and we lost no time, after recovering from our surprise, in setting out for the favoured spot.

In a tortuous line we descended the rugged slope, placing the women of the caravan in front, who, with their infants at their backs, intoned, as they went, a mournful song, meant by its simple words to be one of thankfulness. All honour to the sex and all honour to these not unworthy members of it ! On fortunate days they were the first at work, and by their handiness and cheerfulness they gave to the camp what life and gaiety it could ever boast of; and on the sad and trying ones, the fewest complaints came from them, whilst their patience and endurance were beyond all praise. How often, when fighting with a host of obstacles, has not the sight of them, plodding on in silence, encouraged us as men to even greater efforts ; and how often too

The Women of the Expedition. 1 1 7

did we not behold a like effect bein & wrought anion 9; their untutored companions, and a respect engendered that at the outset was unknown !

We did our very best to foster this respect by the rigorous rules we laid down where the sex was concerned. All quarrels and domestic difficulties were referred to us for solution, and woe betide the husband who dared to lay a finger upon his wife or steal a cloth from her to barter it away ! Scores of times Capulca discovered this to his

LEMBA, MUTU S WIFE.

cost, for though a gallant gay Lothario among strange ladies he was a very Othello to his own Desdemona. But for every blow he administered to her back, ho got a dozen on his own, most religiously paid, for in matters of this kind we made it a point of honour never to be in his debt.

The garments they wore were delivered to them at set times ; we treated both them and their children when

1 1 8 West and Central Africa.

sick, and if, by any sad chance, one of them became a widow, we were careful at once to keep her apart till we could find her a second husband.

While on this point we may mention that when in the Quioco poor Filippe died, Lemba, his wife, was separated in this manner, and on the following day, ranging in a line those unmarried men who cared to enter the lists, we made her come to the front with ourselves that she might make her choice. It was curious to observe the eagerness with which the candidates followed her eyes ; for it is no light thing to be the object on which a woman's choice shall fall amid a bevy of competitors ! At the outset they were all on the broad grin, for they looked upon the affair as a capital joke, but on observing the serious air with which we presided at the ceremonial they composed their countenances and anxiously awaited the young widow's decision. And when it came and her choice was really made, the only countenance that dis- played hilarity was that of the chosen youth who bore the name of Mutu. Summoning him from the group, we inquired : —

" Does this woman please you ? "

To which he answered, " She does."

" Would you like to live with her ? "

" I should."

"Be it so : now listen. Henceforth she shall be your companion and your wife ; you will live with her and have your rations apart ; you will be responsible for her acts, and if you do not immediately repair her trans- gressions, you will be punished; .remember, you must not lay a finger upon her, but live in peace." And thus were married Mutu and Lemba !

To resume our narrative; the sun shone full upon our faces, as though to congratulate us on our good for-

Famine and Plenty. 1 1 9

tune, and obliquely illuminating the landscape, still in part concealed by morning mist, gave it an aspect of juvenile beauty and a sense of serenity that were consol- ing to the awakening spirits.

Breaking away from the grass, we crossed the little thickets that were scattered in every direction over the plain, and at length came out in the neighbourhood of the hamlet.

It consisted of half a dozen huts or sheds perfectly well built ; a palisade, formed by a species of bamboo split in half, formed the enclosure within which, they nestled, while various fireplaces served for the cooking of fish. Our first glance also showed us bindas of palm wine, bundles of manioc and slices of meat hanging within the dwellings, and several persons moving about. On the right there was a larger number busy in assisting at or witnessing some occupation, which we shortly dis- covered to be the dismemberment of an enormous buffalo, lying on the ground, that had been killed the day before.

At our unexpected arrival, all occupations, both in- doors and out, were immediately suspended, and the natives, half in alarm, half in curiosity, regarded us, open-mouthed; while we, staring with equal interest, but with no sort of fear upon the colossal ruminant, exclaimed, —

" We have been near starving in the midst of plenty ! "

Five minutes after this moving spectacle met our eyes, we were squatting down